tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-81852415223787840262024-03-08T06:31:49.053-05:00Outlander AbroadOutlander Abroadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18318811583672765616noreply@blogger.comBlogger127125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8185241522378784026.post-61473514713274969162015-07-16T12:20:00.001-04:002015-07-16T12:20:12.587-04:00Strange Familiarity: Hong Kong & Macau<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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After playing in my first ultimate tournament in ages, I was happy to spend a few more days exploring Hong Kong. I once again had the opportunity to stay with my friend Sue, who had moved to a new neighborhood since my previous visit. Her new place was nice and cozy, but open - the perfect size for one person, though it appeared a family of four or five was living in a space the same size just across the hall! I spent the next few days exploring new areas of Hong Kong and revisiting familiar ones, and I was thrilled for the opportunity to take a day trip over to Macau, something I hadn't had enough time to do in my first visit. </div>
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One of the first new places I discovered in Hong Kong was the Zoological and Botanical Gardens - a green space set up on a hill right smack dab in the middle of the city, with cages full of lemurs, gibbons, orangutans, some tortoises, and a gorilla. It was so bizarre, this little free zoo of (mostly) primates right in the middle of downtown. But it was interesting to see, and just across the street from the zoo was a lovely little botanical garden. I sat for a while on a bench, people watching in front of a giant fountain as the sky began to turn a lovely shade of pink, the modern buildings towering against it. </div>
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My friend Steve had invited us to join him and some American friends - Raph from San Francisco and Megan from Indiana - at an Irish bar called McSorley's that evening for a makeshift Monday Night Football. Since Hong Kong was so far ahead in time zones, the Sunday games all took place on Monday! This group would meet at the bar, which had recorded all of the games, and select which one they wanted to watch. We selected well - the Seahawks versus the Cowboys - as the game turned out to be a very close match. </div>
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I paid a visit to CrossFit Typhoon the following morning for a brutal workout, later setting out with my laptop to find a cafe. I found myself wandering around a neighborhood friends had referred to as 'hipsterville', wandering in and out of small shops and art galleries. Then I spotted a man walking five identical-looking Shiba Inu dogs, all wearing rainbow bowties. I snapped their photo as they posed outside of one of the local shops, and I discovered later that they're local celebrities, often being spotted around town.</div>
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I also stopped in Sin Sin Gallery, after spotting an exhibition featuring an Indonesian painter. I was pleasantly surprised to find images of Barong - a wonderful reminder of the time I had just spent in Bali. I settled in at a cafe called Oldish to get some work done, surrounded by antiques with a soundtrack of classic rock and Sinatra-era tunes. After Sue got off work, I met her at a place with unique and inventive cocktails called Quinary. I sampled a whiskey-based drink called a Black Pearl, while Sue's included a tower of foam! After we had finished our cocktails, we met some of her friends just around the corner at a restaurant called La Vache, famous for their steak and frites. And truly, that's all they served - the waiter just asked our drink and done-ness requests! The food was excellent, and the company resulted in an entertaining evening.</div>
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The next morning, I woke early, determined to spend the day exploring nearby Macau - another Chinese Semi Autonomous Region and a former Portuguese colony, now best known as the Las Vegas of Asia, filled with glittering casinos. I caught a midmorning ferry across the channel, found the appropriate bus, and beelined it to the historic Portuguese area of town. As soon as I stepped off the bus, I felt like I had entered a parallel universe, standing on typical Portuguese blue and white tiles with Portuguese architecture swirling up around me, but with signage in a mix of Chinese characters, and surrounded by Chinese tourists. It was a bit of a jolt being somewhere that felt so familiar and yet so far away from a place I adored.</div>
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I walked past a gorgeous fountain and a large yellow church, continuing up a walking street towards the São Paulo Cathedral ruins, passing people wearing signboards (and one in a durian mask) directing tourists towards various shops and restaurants. I finally stopped at a spot called 7 Burger for a typical sandwich of fried pork before continuing. After refueling, I made my way up the stairs leading to the outer front facade of the cathedral, the largest portion of the building that's still standing. Ironically, just behind the ruins sat a small temple with offerings of incense out front. </div>
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From the ruins, I walked through a small garden up to the top of the adjacent fort, with ancient cannons and a view of the city. Looking out over the smoggy skyline and the Grand Lisboa casino rising up like a golden pineapple, I felt very, very far away from Portugal. </div>
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I finally made my way down, weaving through small alleys and side streets decorated with with Portuguese mosaics that echoed those in Aveiro. I even picked up a Pastel de Nata (a typical Portuguese egg tart), but the shop didn't have the fresh cinnamon that I usually dusted over the top. I eventually found my way back to where I had started, and, intrigued by the man in the durian mask, I stopped at McPherson's Sweets Shop. Mostly a windowfront with an interior the size of a closet, they specialized in durian and black garlic flavored sweets! I took a chance on the black garlic flavored ice cream and was pleasantly surprised, but there was no way I was touching the durian flavors!</div>
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I caught the ferry back to Hong Kong, with mixed emotions about my day trip to Macau. I'm glad I went, but it was a bittersweet reminder of Portugal and João and the distance between us. Thankfully Sue had set up some dinner plans for the evening, so I met her and a group of friends out in a swanky shopping district of town for a delicious meal of small plates - dumplings and noodles that we sampled and shared.</div>
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Unfortunately, Sue had to take off for a conference in Beijing the next day, so I wouldn't see her my final days of the trip. But it was so wonderful to see her and reconnect, and I thanked her (and still do!!) for being so incredibly welcoming when I dropped in - twice!! I wound up returning to Mixing Bowl near her old apartment for their incredible scones and coffee (and wifi), and the sweet owners actually recognized me and asked me how my travels had been! As welcoming as everyone had been in the city, it was steadily becoming one of those places I would be happy to return to and live in if I ever had the chance.</div>
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That evening, I stopped by a place called PMQ - formerly the Police Married Quarters, the area has been converted into an incredible space full of art galleries, boutiques, restaurants, and cafes. That evening, they were hosting a huge night market / Oktoberfest event - the main floor was packed with small tents - local vendors selling beer and food - and tons of locals were out to enjoy it. After checking out some boutiques, I picked up a delicious - and massive - Chinese-style crepe filled with peking duck for dinner. It was phenomenal! </div>
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As I walked back to Sue's apartment with my takeout, I passed a restaurant I had seen many times with a gold door and a door man and a window downstairs looking into a space full of art, including what looked like a Vhils piece across one wall. (Vhils is a Portuguese street artist that often carves faces into the sides of buildings.) That evening, the door was open, and two well-dressed men were standing outside. One of them stopped me, insisting I looked familiar and he had met me before (I don't think this is a line - literally everywhere I go someone swears they've met me - I think I just have a familiar-looking face). As it turned out, he was the restaurant manager - the place was called Bi Bo - and confirmed that yes, not only did they have a custom Vhils, but that the restaurant was fully decorated with street art. I knew I couldn't afford a meal there, but I promised myself I would at least have a drink to see the art before I left the island. </div>
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Over the next couple of days I mostly spent time between the gym and various cafes like the Mixing Bowl and nearby Agnes B (also delicious and on a street full of cute boutiques), but I did meet some of the folks from the gym out one night to bid one of the members farewell before he made his return to the US. We had a small group at a restaurant with delicious, super-organic food in teeny tiny portions. But, the group was a lot of fun, and we had some wine and chatted and I again found myself enjoying all the little things about Hong Kong.</div>
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My final day in Hong Kong, I was determined to visit the mainland side of Hong Kong, so I caught the star ferry over to a neighborhood nicknamed BT. The sky was a bit smoggy, but otherwise it was a nice, bright day as I crossed the water and viewed the skyline from the other side. I did some shopping at H&M and sat down at a food court style spot reminiscent of Singapore with - of course - some chicken rice. After crossing back to the island side, I wandered around Central, picking up some guides for my next and final stops - South Korea and Japan - and splurged on a pedicure for my tired feet! After dinner that evening, I finally fulfilled my promise to myself - dropping in on Bi Bo on my own for one farewell drink. </div>
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I arrived and sat at the bar, immediately making friends with Alex, not just the bartender on duty, but the head mixologist for the restaurant. He whipped up something for me off their unique menu called a Vieux Carré - a smooth, whiskey-based drink with hints of citrus, finished off with a flamed orange peel. He wound up telling me all about each of the distinctive pieces from artists like Vhils, Banksy, Shepard Fairey, and even Jean-Michel Basquiat (the 'founder' of modern street art). He wound up giving me a sort of private tour of the dining area (once it wasn't so full), even showing me a piece that had been hidden in a stairwell behind a door. There was a group of three later on who wanted a mini tour, but with so many people he couldn't take them into the small dining area - I felt very thankful that I had arrived alone! I hated that I couldn't stay longer and have more than one drink - I promised myself to come back for dinner someday - but I had a very early flight the following morning to South Korea, and I needed at least a few hours of sleep!</div>
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The more I've traveled, the more I realize how special it is to find a connection with a place - and Hong Kong is just one of those cities I'm drawn to. As big of a city as it is, it somehow feels small and cozy. It has the most amazing mix of Asian and European culture mashed together in a single location. And the people I met who call Hong Kong home - from all over the world - were all incredibly friendly and welcoming. I have a feeling I'll be back there one of these days - after all, I managed to see it twice in one world tour!</div>
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Outlander Abroadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18318811583672765616noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8185241522378784026.post-40467014538659657412015-06-24T10:32:00.000-04:002015-06-24T10:32:07.052-04:00Ultimate Return to Hong Kong<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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I arrived in Hong Kong at a very interesting time for the Special Administration Region, when it was in the midst of a movement of mass civil disobedience that was dubbed the "Umbrella Revolution". The movement was a reaction against proposed reforms to the Hong Kong electoral system - in short, that the Communist Party in mainland China would have the authority to "approve" (select) the leadership candidates that Hong Kong residents could vote for.</div>
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When I arrived at the Mong Kok metro station, I found myself suddenly surrounded by blocked-off streets for the student-led pro-democracy protests. It was a relatively quiet community of sign boards and yellow umbrellas and people camped out and sharing ideas while the police looked on. I never witnessed any intimidation or violence, but it was certainly interesting and a bit humbling to arrive in this city for something as insignificant as a frisbee tournament, as I watched the locals around me taking a stand for their democratic rights.</div>
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I eventually found the guesthouse where I was to meet with my teammates - mostly expats from Shanghai that my friend Amy had connected me to, as she would be arriving later. It took some time as the guesthouse was located only on a small portion of a floor of a tall building, and given the vague address I wound up wandering up and down the stairs of an adjacent building full of small shops and stalls full of men with cigarettes in their hands who didn't speak English. I finally enlisted the help of one of the police officers standing by, and he graciously directed me to the entrance. Once inside, I met the American and Philippino girls I would be sharing a small room with, and we got some sleep for an early morning for my first ultimate tournament in years.</div>
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The next morning, I reconnected with Amy and met more of my teammates as we walked to the nearby fields, set in a beautifully manicured sports complex with incredible views of the city springing up all around us. Older men and women moved slowly around the edges of the park, doing thai chi or low-impact exercises. I was entirely unprepared for a tournament given the limitations of my pack, so Amy had brought me a pair of jerseys, and I borrowed a spare pair of cleats from one of the guys on the team. They were a bit tight and pinched my big toes, but I figured they would get me through the weekend, especially since (given limited field space) we would have byes after every game. I was wrong.</div>
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Our first game was against a Beijing-based team called Big Brother that the Shanghai folks knew well. It was a tight, back and forth game, but we wound up on top in the end. Next we played a team from Manilla, and I was impressed that the team was nearly entirely composed of Philippino Nationals rather than American and European expats, like so many of the teams. They were fast and incredibly athletic, but their throws weren't always on target, and we slowly pulled away for the win. After two games in those tight cleats, my big toes felt bruised and tender, and not wanting to risk losing a couple of toenails, I switched to my CrossFit sneakers for the remainder of the weekend!</div>
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Next we were served delicious boxes of chicken, veggies, rice, and sauce as part of a lunch break We sat in the shade on the edges of the park, eating using the container lids as spoons since the chopsticks were a bit late to arrive. As wevchatted with other teams, I bumped into one of the guys from pickup in Singapore - I hadn't realized it before, but he was actually from Memphis and had played ultimate in Wyoming with a close friend of ours! The global ultimate community remains a very, very small world indeed.</div>
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After lunch, we only had one game left against a strong team from Taiwan, called Chairman Xiong Mao (a clever play on words, since 'xiongmao' actually means 'panda' in Chinese). Again it was a close game, and we walked away with a win by only a point or two. I finished the day completely exhausted - I clearly hadn't been doing much running over the course of my travels, and I felt slow and out of shape. Every cut I made on the field felt like I was wearing ankle weights and an inner tube around my waist! Plus, I hadn't played real 7-on-7 ultimate in a very long time, and it was a struggle just remembering where on the field I needed to be! Thankfully I had Amy there to help me, and I gave her permission to yell and instruct me as much as possible!</div>
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We returned to the hotel to shower and rest a bit, then grabbed a quick dinner before heading to the party. Ultimate tournament parties are well-known for involving silly themes and lots of drinking, to the point where one team will often seek to 'win the party' rather than the tournament itself. In this case, the party winners actually received an award similar to the tournament winners! We hopped on a bus that would take us and the other attendees out to a spot called 'Hidden Agenda' - a warehouse-style space over an auto repair shop. The DJ was loud but good, and despite numerous 'no smoking' signs, it seemed that every person working at the venue was smoking. Thankfully, ultimate players don't often smoke cigarettes, so it wasn't too bad. The party theme was puns, so various teams dressed accordingly, some more elaborately than others. The team that would go on to win the party called themselves 'Gang-green' and wore green tutus and bandanas and walked around putting little green stickers on everyone else at the party. Eventually a few of us broke away around 11:30 and found a taxi back to our hotel, leaving the party still in full swing.</div>
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Since we had done so well on the first day of the tournament, we had earned a first round bye for Sunday, allowing us to sleep in a bit, pack our bags, and grab some coffee before meeting at the fields for our first game. We played against a team called Hakuna Matata, led by a woman who had gone to Wake Forest and played with many of my friends from North Carolina. While it was probably our easiest game of the tournament, it was by no means a blowout, and we had to work for the win. My legs felt much better after the jolt of the previous day, and I sort of remembered what I was doing on the field, allowing me to get a bit more involved! </div>
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Our second game of the day turned out to be a rematch against Big Brother from Beijing, though they had picked up a few new players since our previous game. Though we mostly traded points the entire game and kept things close, we wound up losing in a heartbreaker by a single point. Honestly though, I'm not sure I could have made it through another game, and the eventual winners - a mixed group called Junket - beat Beijing handily in the finals. We had a consolation match ourselves, but it was a rematch against the Taiwan team from the previous day, and neither team took it very seriously! </div>
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Since I was planning to stay a few more days in Hong Kong, I had the luxury of hanging out at the fields through the end of the finals, watching the match, enjoying some free pizza, and chatting with various teammates and random other people from the tournament who somehow had even more connections with friends back home. As I finally bid Amy and my teammates farewell, I was thankful that I had made the decision to return to Hong Kong and to take part in the tournament. It was an interesting mix of something familiar and completely unique, huge varieties of new people with surprising connections to old friends, a sport that used to be an integral part of my life in a year of exploration. And as my time out on the road was nearing an end, it was nice to have that familiarity mixed with the new, and I was looking forward to a few more days in Hong Kong.</div>
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Outlander Abroadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18318811583672765616noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8185241522378784026.post-72883921092502155272015-06-02T13:38:00.001-04:002015-06-02T13:38:13.126-04:00A Taste of Singapore<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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Arriving in Singapore was a stark contrast to the cozy little island towns I had spent time in over the last few weeks. As I climbed into a taxi, a massive downpour began, bringing cool refreshing air to the immaculately clean city with manicured palms on either side of the road. I was fortunate to know a couple of people in the city, and my friend Kevin, whom I had met during my week at Elephant Nature Park, had offered to let me stay at his place while he was away most of the week for work. His apartment was gorgeous, with an incredible little porch and huge windows out to a portion of the city that was overwhelmingly green and lush. In terms of finding a quiet cafe-style place to work, here I was! </div>
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My primary goal during my time in Singapore was to eat all the things, so Kevin immediately took me out for one of Singapore's signature dishes: chicken rice. We went to a spot called Boon Tong Kee Pte Ltd at 425 River Valley Road, which had started as a hawker stall but had grown into a full restaurant. We sat down and treated ourselves to an immensely flavorful plate of chicken rice, as well as sweet and sour pork, bean sprouts, fried tofu, and a sort of limeade drink. Completely stuffed, we returned to the house to relax a bit, before Kevin took me on a short walking tour of nearby Orchard Road. </div>
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We then ventured back out to the airport to meet Xindi, who I had also met at ENP, who only had a few hours in between an arrival and another departure for another work trip. We delivered her a new suitcase and retrieved a small one from her, then sat down at a Chinese restaurant in the airport for a massive spread of food that I couldn't hope to finish! </div>
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After bidding her farewell, we dropped a few things back at the apartment before swinging by Marina Bay to see the iconic Merlion fountain, arriving just in time to catch the nightly light show projected from the Marina Bay Sands just across the water. We continued walking around the bay, until we reached a collection of hawker stalls called Glutton's Bay. We took in all the options, finally deciding to share a plate of fried bananas with a sort of coconut butter dipping sauce of deliciousness before returning to the apartment. </div>
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The next morning, Kevin left for Kuala Lampur for work, and I ventured out to nearby ION, a shopping complex on Orchard Road. I picked up a new external hard drive at the Apple store, and made a trip to H&M for some basic shirts since I was going to be in nicer, dressier cities the last few weeks of my trip, and I didn't want to keep wearing some of my ratty backpacker tank tops from Thailand! I had a tasty lunch of crispy pork and noodles from the hawker center within ION, and I picked up some incredible fresh-baked bread (a loaf of orange chocolate and a loaf of mango raisin) for snacks and breakfast. Bread and coffee in hand, I returned to the apartment for the afternoon to catch up on photo editing. I stayed there the rest of the evening, only venturing out for a plate of cashew chicken from a nearby shop.</div>
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I got up the next morning determined to check out a CrossFit gym Kevin had connected me to called Mobilus. Luckily, as I was stepping off the metro, a girl named Joann saw my outfit and the confused look on my face and led me to the gym - a small space tucked away in an alley. Apparently, they were sharing the space with another gym for now as they got their new primary space set up. The workout was a good one, and despite it being my first visit to a real gym in over a month, I felt pretty good! </div>
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I made my way back to Orchard, planning to grab some lunch at the ION hawker center (as that's where the metro stopped), but I took a wrong turn within the maze of the mall complex, and I wound up in a more upscale section, surrounded by luxury brands! But right in the center of the space was a little burger spot called Omakase Burger that was absolutely packed. I figured if it was that busy, it must be good, and I took my place in the queue to order a cheeseburger and fries. While it was definitely expensive, the meal was absolutely delicious, and I was amused by the efficiency of the restaurant. Since I was a single patron, they sat another single patron at the same two-person table with me! </div>
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That evening, I decided to try out a recommendation from one of Kevin's roommates for delicious takeout Thai. Of course, the restaurant - called Thai Tantric - was inside of the one building in Singapore where prostitution is legal. Orchard Towers, affectionately referred to as "four floors of whores" by the locals, is a bizarre collection of bars and "beauty spas" with scantily-clad women standing outside the various "shops" to lure in customers. It was a strange experience to see all the ladies wandering through the building as I waited on my food, and the people-watching outside was hilarious, as large groups of young Indian men congregated around the building. But, he was right. The green curry I ordered was phenomenal, and the papaya salad had all the right flavors, though it was a bit too spicy for me. It was definitely the best Thai food I had tasted outside of Thailand!</div>
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The next morning I took another tip from the roommates for a spot for lunch and coffee, though I took a wrong turn and walked for about half an hour through the sweltering heat. At least I got a nice little tour of the other side of the neighborhood, passing a number of embassies and winding up at the entrance to the botanical gardens. I eventually found the Nissen Hill Bakery down a road parallel to the one I had taken, where I enjoyed a plate of creamy tomato and chicken pasta and a tasty cup of coffee as I edited another pile of photos. </div>
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I headed back out to CrossFit Mobilus that evening to make full use of their policy that the first two drop-ins are free. This time, the workout was much harder than my first visit, and I could definitely feel my long absence from the gym as we did back squats, shuttle runs, wall walks, squat cleans, and burpees. It was late when I headed back, and I was exhausted, so I grabbed a late dinner at ION and picked up some more delicious breakfast bread on the way home. </div>
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The next day I was determined to try another of Singapore's signature dishes: chili crab. Unfortunately, I quickly learned that chili crab is a dish for sharing for many reasons, one being the price! I quickly cancelled my order after hearing it would cost $40, and grabbed a Vietnamese pork and noodle dish instead. </div>
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Later that evening, I decided to check out the pick-up ultimate scene. While I used to play ultimate competitively, it had been years since I had played anything more than small, less competitive league games. I also didn't have any cleats, and I hadn't even touched a disc in nearly a year. But, I had a friend named Alex living in Singapore who was part of the scene - someone I had met at an ultimate tournament in Italy called Paganello nearly 10 years prior - and he convinced me to come give it a try. I didn't play particularly well, but I did have fun, and it was nice to run around in the fresh air. I chatted with a few of the players afterwards, learning that quite a few had roots in the southern US, including a guy from Memphis that I would later learn was friends with my good friend Caroline. The ultimate world is a very, very small one! </div>
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After pickup, Alex and I wandered around the surrounding neighborhood of Little India, the streets brightly lit with colorful decorations for the upcoming holiday of Diwali. It felt a world away from Singapore, but also perhaps, just as far from India. We settled on a place called Banana Leaf for dinner, and we shared delicious plates of butter chicken, palak paneer, chickpeas, saffron rice, and butter naan, washed down with Tiger Beer. We chatted about the many, many years since we had seen each other, especially all of our crazy travel stories. </div>
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The next morning, as I was chatting with Kevin about his trip to Kuala Lampur - he had returned the night before - he discovered that a bomb (really a grenade, but still) had gone off just around the corner from his hotel! Supposedly it was gang activity rather than terrorism, but it had also taken place in a very nice, touristy section of the city. My plan had been to go to Malaysia and particularly Kuala Lampur next, but this felt like a huge sign that I should be going elsewhere. I also felt like I needed to get out of Singapore as quickly as possible. I knew I was starting to impose upon the roommates, and I didn't want to affect their weekend plans by taking up the couch. On a whim, I sent a message to my friend Amy in Shanghai about an ultimate tournament she had mentioned going to in Hong Kong. Sure enough, it was the coming weekend, and they desperately needed women. Flights to Hong Kong from Singapore were actually pretty reasonable, so that evening I made the decision, booking a ticket for the following day.</div>
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I still had a few places to explore in Singapore, so while Kevin had a meeting, I set out to the bay area, walking along the Marina Bay Sands to the Art Science Museum, a large lotus-shaped feat of architecture, with a small pond of lotus blooms beneath it. I explored the two major exhibits on display: an Annie Lebowitz photography exhibition, and another featuring Chinese artists. The Lewbowitz exhibit was really interesting - I hadn't been aware of much of her background, and the show displayed a mix of celebrity portraits and more personal, casual photos she had taken of friends and family. I was especially fascinated with the focal points she chose for her portraits, often a detail around the face - like the hair - leaving the eyes a bit softer. </div>
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The second exhibit was smaller, but also very interesting, showcasing a few Chinese artists with vastly different styles. Many were posed photography pieces, another featured a look at various shots of Mao that had been severely photoshopped (showing the originals versus what appeared in publications), and another was a series of landscapes that resembled traditional black and white paintings, but used photoshopped urban elements - telephone poles, wires, factories, skyscrapers - to construct the natural scenes.</div>
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From the museum, I continued walking over to the Gardens by the Bay, sort of behind the Marina Bay Sands. As I walked, the gardens spread out in front of me, dozens of runners trotted past, many wearing identical outfits. I decided to visit the Cloud Forest, one of many individual 'galleries' of plantlife, this one featuring a 7-story manmade waterfall and an entire ecosystem of mountainous and rainforest plantlife. I wound my way through the living exhibition as it slowly became dark through the glass dome to the outside world. </div>
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I waited outside to meet with Kevin, and he arrived just as a lightship was beginning on the enormous "trees" that looked like something out of Avatar. We sat and watched the radiant lights and music, feeling like we'd stepped into another universe. And as we departed, a full moon lit our way from above the colorful trees.</div>
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We walked to a set of hawker stalls called Satay by the Bay, where we enjoyed a small feast - satays of pork, pork belly, chicken, and prawn; grilled stingray with a spicy sauce; and something called a carrot cake which more closely resembled an omelet with turnips and oysters; as we sipped fresh cane juice. We sampled a local dessert as well - shaved ice with sweet jelly and red bean paste. </div>
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The next morning I made my preparations for departure, packing and separating out a bundle of items to be shipped home - mostly gifts and trinkets I had picked up in China and Indonesia. Kevin took me to a smaller nearby mall for a local dish as a farewell lunch, then I grabbed my bag and we walked over to ION to catch the metro to the airport. Kevin pointed out a spot for another local specialty that I was able to enjoy on my ride to the airport - strong, local coffee, and toasts slathered in the coconutty butter we had tried the night I arrived. I thanked Kevin for his amazing hospitality and bid him farewell, arriving at the airport just in time to check my bag and rush to the gate, still attempting to organize where I would be staying in Hong Kong as I walked onto the flight. </div>
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While I enjoyed my time in Singapore, and while I'd definitely like to return one of these days, I was surprised that I didn't connect with it nearly as strongly as some of the other large Asian cities I had visited. It felt a little too clean, a little too structured, a little too expensive and luxurious. And while the food was incredible, the hawker stalls felt hidden, and I was never quite sure exactly where I was supposed to go to find this or that dish. It was a place where I should have found a local food tour, or taken any sort of tour in general. In the end though, I enjoyed my time there, and I would certainly return sometime in the future.</div>
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Outlander Abroadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18318811583672765616noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8185241522378784026.post-71499450688319408882015-05-29T06:44:00.000-04:002015-05-29T06:44:55.643-04:00Misadventures in Transportation: Indonesia Edition<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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While my entire stay in Yogyakarta was very last-minute and hastily planned, I did go ahead and book my departing flight with Air Asia, which would take me to Singapore. After a full day of exploring the areas around Yogyakarta - a full 13 hour day that began around 3 am - I went online to check into my flight the following morning. Except when I went to the Air Asia site, it wouldn't allow me to check in. It had my flight displayed, but there was an error message that said something about an outstanding payment. When I looked closer, my credit card information was listed - so clearly I had provided it - but the payment was listed as "pending". </div>
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First, I tried to open up a live chat through the Air Asia site to resolve the issue. The wifi was too slow in my room, so I moved to the lobby. Unfortunately, the wait time for the chat was listed as 30 minutes. As I waited, I asked if I could use the hotel phone to call. It was a Jakarta number - the main city on the same island, Java. And the answer was… no. They couldn't call. In fact, they could only make calls within Yogyakarta. My guesthouse did not have the technology to place a call to the nearby major city on the same island. My mind was blown. So, I waited on the live chat, while simultaneously sending a tweet to Air Asia's Twitter support account. No response. And when the live chat wait was finally over? I got a blank grey box. Likely due to the less than excellent wifi on my end.</div>
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My guesthouse told me about a place on the next street over that had a phone capable of calling Jakarta, and thankfully a kid working at the hotel gave me a lift on his motorbike, because otherwise I wouldn't have found it! I called the number and reached an IVR (that's the automated menu thing). There was no option for an existing flight, or even for a general inquiry. It just said, 'Try Again', and hung up on me. I tried again and finally reached a human, and they said they would "escalate" my request. That's it. I asked if I could give them a new method of payment. No. I asked what happened if it wasn't resolved - would I lose my flight? Potentially. Then he recommended I try the website. Nope. Or just show up to the airport early the next day. Seriously?</div>
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So I asked to speak to a manager. No. A supervisor? No. Someone in another department? No. Any other human being anywhere? No. He says they have no capability to transfer my call. YOU'RE A CALL CENTER FOR A MAJOR AIRLINE THAT OPERATES ACROSS MULTIPLE COUNTRIES. I hung up.</div>
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I tried calling the airport directly, but I couldn't reach anyone at the Air Asia ticket counter. I was directed back to the website or the call center. Right.</div>
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The guys at the shop tried to be helpful, but I showed them everything online, proving that there was nothing I could do. Even they found the whole situation laughable, which definitely made me feel better - it's not just me that thinks this is ridiculous! I decided to print out the page, showing my ticket number and the pending status, and try to get to the airport at 5am for my 7:30am flight. I had missed my group dinner, so I had a plate of pasta and a much-needed Bintang at a spot called Oola and tried to get as much rest as possible before another very, very early morning.</div>
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I woke up at 3:45 to catch a 4:30 taxi to the airport, hoping I could work out the flight issue. But sure enough, when I went to check in, they said my booking was "no longer valid". I asked if I could purchase a new ticket - yes - but it was now more expensive since it was the day of the flight. I asked if they would honor the price I originally attempted to purchase the ticket for. No. I asked to speak to a manager. Thankfully, this time a manager actually appeared.</div>
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The manager explained to me that I would have needed to work with them the day before to resolve the issue. At that, I just laughed. I told him the long story. I even showed him a screen shot of the failed live chat, the tweet that had not been responded to, and he could see his own system where I had called. "I used every channel of communication available to me, and they ALL FAILED!" </div>
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Thankfully, he empathized. He then went to work for me, getting me a new ticket at a proper rate - the one I had tried to pay just a few days prior.</div>
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With the flight resolved and a giant weight lifted off my shoulders, I was able to sit down and have a cup of coffee and some gourmet chocolate, waiting out all the extra time in the tiny airport. Finally we boarded. Once in the air, we passed by what looked like a pair of enormous volcanoes, sticking up through the surrounding clouds. I was well on my way to Singapore, and the next country on my journey.</div>
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A few months later, safely back in the US, I would learn of the tragic end of another Air Asia flight from Java to Singapore - this one departing from Surabaya on December 28. I can't hep but be thankful that for all the misadventures associated with my own flight, I did safely arrive in Singapore.</div>
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Outlander Abroadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18318811583672765616noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8185241522378784026.post-47577885338538368242015-05-26T06:43:00.000-04:002015-05-26T06:43:56.947-04:00Yogyakarta: A 13-Hour Tour<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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I made a last-minute decision to spend the last few nights of my Indonesian visa in Yogyakarta, a small town on the island of Java, a short flight away from Bali. I chose Yogyakarta for two main reasons: it was known for beautiful batik prints, and the famous temple of Borobudur - the largest Buddhist temple in the world - was located just outside the city. I splurged on a private room at a tiny spot in the Lonely Planet called Delta Homestay, spending a few hours to simply relax after the very early flight. I finally emerged for lunch, wandering down the road and over to an adjacent street, admiring the street art along the way, and avoiding the hawkers trying to get me into a pedicab for a city tour. I had some tasty pasta at a spot called Via Via (which had a highly recommended hostel that was unfortunately booked up), then spotted a cafe across the street with a large section of batik prints. <br />
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I wound up at the owner's second shop just down the street, chatting with an Australian woman who had been living there for the last few months with her husband as I picked out a few gorgeous prints. While I would always prefer to buy directly from the artist, I liked the prints, the prices were reasonable, and I would wind up getting some valuable advice from the shop owners. When I returned to the cafe to pay for the pieces and have a coffee, I met a couple of American girls who were staying in the adjacent guest house. I learned that they had been working in New Zealand for the past year and were traveling until Thanksgiving. As we got to talking, we discussed visiting Borobudur together on a tour that would include a sunrise stop. When I returned later to confirm the logistics with them and grab dinner, they had started chatting with a Dutch couple about hiring a driver for the group, rather than booking through a tour agency. The English cafe owner gave us a detailed list of places to see and helped us book the driver for a very early departure the following morning.</div>
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I woke up insanely early - at 2:45 am, for a 3:15 departure. After picking up the rest of our group and driving to Punthuk Setumbu, we arrived well in advance of sunrise at 4:30 am. Not long after we arrived, a small crowd began to form, as we watched the sky slowly turn from black to hazy grey to pink, as the sun suddenly appeared in a break in the clouds, glowing red, illuminating the haze and the magnificent temple far in the distance below. It was slightly disappointing to not be able to spend sunrise at the temple, but the gates didn't open until 6 am! We arrived before most of the crowd, just as the gates opened, and we were given tea and coffee and sarongs to wear through the grounds. <br />
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While Borobudur was quite large and impressive, it was actually smaller than I had expected. We split up to climb the stairs and explore the six levels of the temple, full of images of the Buddha, between thousands of reliefs and over 500 individual statues. The top levels contained Buddha statues covered with large geometric stone domes, with openings in the shapes of diamonds revealing the Buddhas within. <br />
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As I walked, I came across a group of young girls with bright pink and purple headscarves who stopped to quiz me on various things - my name, where I was from, an activity I enjoyed, something about my country that they may not already know. Whether they were doing an assignment or just practicing their English, they were sweet and inquisitive, and I saw them stopping many other people for brief interviews along the way. <br />
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After exploring the temple, we wound our way through the exit path, clearly set up to take us past dozens of souvenir stands, most of which weren't yet open. We finally found our driver, then sat down for a small breakfast before proceeding.<br />
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Our next stop was called Pawan, an absolutely tiny temple, then to Mandut, a slightly larger one-room temple with three figures inside. The central image was a large Buddha sitting "Western style" - as if on a chair - an unusual posture for a Buddha! Outside the temple was an enormous tree with long limbs that reached back towards the ground. We took a few moments to climb and swing from the tree, in the company of some local children who happily joined us. On the other side of the temple was a small anthropological excavation site - it looked like an entire other temple was potentially buried there!<br />
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Next, we visited a beautiful monastery across the street, a peaceful, quiet place full of ponds and fountains, Buddhist icons and flowers.<br />
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Then, we piled back into the car to drive about an hour to the site of a volcano named Mount Merapi - particularly to a town which had been wiped out by a very recent eruption in 2010. The 300 villagers had been killed with the local guru - the spiritual leader of the town - had insisted they would be safe and that they should stay. We had a quick snack, then were taken to an open Jeep for a rough ride out to see the village and a collection of melted, damaged belongings. It was a bizarre and jarring experience, to see such modern artifacts - TVs and motorcycles and such - set out like ruins in Pompeii. The jeep ride also took us to see the path that the lava had taken in its flow down the mountain, stopping to see a collection of rocks that were somehow still warm. We were also shown a bunker before returning, where the operator used compressed air to blow off the dust that had collected all over us. Between the rough Jeep ride and the oddly upbeat tour of an area so tragically decimated, this was my least favorite activity of the day.<br />
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Luckily, lunch turned out to be cheap and wonderful, as we sat down in a spot called Resto Kinahrejo. We ate nasi goring, washed down with delicious banana ginger palm leaf tea, followed by fried banana fritters for dessert. We were served by a smiling, friendly old woman who ran the tiny restaurant - little more than a hut with a picnic table out front.<br />
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After lunch, we drove to our last stop of the day, the Hindu temple Prambanan - the largest in Indonesia, and one of the largest in Southeast Asia. Both Prambanan and Borobudur were built around the 9th century, and both have been designated UNESCO World Heritage Sites. Prambanan was actually larger and more impressive than I expected, with a large central structure surrounded by smaller, individual temples, each with a single room containing a stone icon. All the buildings were covered in ornate carvings of animals and Hindu imagery. We slowly explored the complex, venturing inside where we could, before heading back, again following a path that took us past dozens of vendors.<br />
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As we walked past a cluster of identical looking shops, each selling drinks, each with a pile of fresh coconuts out front, I stopped to take a photo of the symmetry. Each of the individual vendors called out to me, hoping to entice me to buy something, but the woman in the center of my frame caught my eye - she was definitely posing for the camera, with a huge smile across her face, wearing a bright blue floor-length skirt, shirt, and headscarf. I went directly to her to ask if she had soda water, hoping to ask her for a portrait. I didn't actually think that what she had brought me was soda water, but she insisted I taste it, "try it first!", and sure enough, it was. I asked her for a portrait, saying she was beautiful, and she responded with a booming laugh! Her friend said, "You just made her day! No one has ever asked for her photo!" and she proudly - and beautifully - posed for a portrait with her daughter. <br />
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Bonus: We spotted a motorbike carrying a live sheep!<br />
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After a long, exhausting, and very full day, we returned to the town - at only 4pm! - and were dropped off at our individual guest houses. We planned to rest and meet again for dinner before each departing in different directions the next morning, but sadly I wouldn't get the chance to rest or to meet them for dinner, as I would be tangled in another transportation adventure that would last through the following morning. <br />
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Outlander Abroadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18318811583672765616noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8185241522378784026.post-53701737114030813482015-05-19T13:50:00.000-04:002015-05-19T13:50:02.504-04:00A Return to Sanur and Manta Point, and a Farewell<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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The reason we had kept our visit to Lombok so ridiculously short, is we wanted to have a chance to return to Sanur and give João an opportunity to dive at Manta Point before his flight back to Portugal.<br />
We were thrilled to get Magic Toto and Uning as our guides, and we lucked out to be booked with a group full of visiting instructors, so we almost had our guides to ourselves! When we checked back in with the shop the day before the dive, we learned that that day's group had also visited Manta Point and seen three mola molas, but not a single manta! So it was definitely going to be a gamble the following day as to what we would see. But we wouldn't be disappointed. <br />
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The evening before our dive, after the long day of travel back from Lombok, we relaxed with ice cream, massages, and a delicious dinner of grilled seafood and duck satay - cooked on stalks of lemongrass - washed down with Bintang beer, at a nearby spot called Pregina Warung. As we ate our meal, a small procession of kids marched by, two wearing the Barong dance costume, the others wearing traditional sarongs and headscarves and playing tiny instruments. It was the perfect welcome back to Sanur.</div>
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The next morning, I came prepared with a pair of seasickness pills after my first unfortunate trip to Manta Point, and with the previous day's boat ride fresh on my mind. Thankfully, the boat ride wasn't near as choppy as it had been on my previous visit! We arrived at Manta Point without any issue or nausea, and the dive turned out to be nearly as amazing as the previous one. While we didn't spot any molas, we very quickly saw five or six mantas gliding around together at a cleaning station. I found myself near eye level with them again as they swirled around, then I descended to join João and Toto, who had brought the camera this time and was filming. </div>
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We continued exploring, spotting another banded sea snake as João began his ascent with Uning, having gone through his air a bit faster than the rest of the group. The rest of us continued, coming upon more mantas individually. I got up close to one of them again, swimming along next to it until I stopped short because another was swimming right towards me. Eventually we made our way up to our safety stop and finally surfaced.</div>
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Our second dive site was in a different location than the one I had gone to with Toto on our previous visit to Manta Point, this one called Toya Pakah. The site was close to an odd pavilion in the water where Chinese tourists could float around in a penned-in area wearing life jackets and ride banana boats around the water. It was definitely a strange sight! </div>
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The dive itself was a drift dive, but with a slower current than our third dive would be. We descended through a curtain of small, colorful fish, and I found myself (again) wishing I had a camera to capture some of the sights myself. We saw a lot of coral, a couple of moray eels, bannerfish and angel fish, some with electric blue outlines, clown triggerfish with their giant white spots, nemo-ish fish, but none of the really big guys the guides had been looking for, like molas or dolphins or turtles. The last part of the dive had even less current and more sandy-bottomed areas, but there were corals dotted about, and we saw one colorful nudibranch before ascending.</div>
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We took a lunch break in between our second and third dives, as I sat on the top deck of the boat with João, soaking up the warm sun and relaxing a bit. The third and final dive was at the same spot at Blue Corner where I had done my drift dive for my advanced course. Just before we descended, as we were preparing on the boat, we spotted a pod of dolphins swimming along the surface. Unfortunately, that was the closest we would come to the dolphins this trip, not spotting any once we got under the water. We did however, see a large bamboo shark, which I excitedly pointed out to Toto. We also saw a very large barracuda and another clown triggerfish. We swam right along the shelf, through blasts of very cold water, but we never did see any molas. </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8000001907349px;">Bamboo shark</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8000001907349px;">Barracuda</td></tr>
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Over our entire diving experience, we really couldn't have asked for better instructors, as the two of us worked with Toto, Amin, and Uning over the course of all our dives, and they took care to ensure we had a truly incredible experience. Between Toto's infectious laugh and magic tricks under the water, and Uning's caring smile and calming energy, we truly were well taken care of. And the ocean itself was pretty magical as well.</div>
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With Magic Toto and Uning after completing our final dives</div>
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The following day would be João's last in Indonesia, and after the excitement of the previous day's dive trip, we spent most of his final day relaxing at the beach, swimming and paddling a bit, enjoying coffee, and walking along the sand. That evening, we got dressed up and returned to Three Monkeys, sitting upstairs next to the wide fronds of a group of trees. We drank sparkling wine and ordered appetizers of fried ravioli and grilled asparagus, then shared entrees of chicken satay and a phenomenal tuna steak, as I fought back tears that these incredible three weeks in paradise were about to come to an end.</div>
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The next morning, we thankfully had some time to wake slowly and give João a chance to pack before spending a couple of hours at the beach for one last time. We shared a taxi out to the airport, then sat at a restaurant just outside security for a quick bite before having to say farewell for another few months. I was a complete mess, but João just smiled. The last time we had said goodbye in an airport, we weren't really sure what the future would hold for us - when and really if we would see each other again. This time, we were both certain, and we knew almost exactly when we would be reunited, as he planned to come to the States just after my return. <br />
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But in a strange role reversal, I was the one being left behind, returning to a place that would suddenly seem strange and empty without him there. Despite remaining in paradise, I felt like I was missing a piece of me, and the place was suddenly quieter now that I no longer had the person with me I had been sharing it with. I'm glad I stayed another couple of nights though. I was in no mood to keep moving, and while the room felt empty, it did feel familiar.<br />
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The next day, I researched and bought a flight for what would be my next stop - Yogyakarta - departing the following morning. I spent half the day running errands, then relaxed on the beach, had some ice cream, got a massage and a pedicure, and picked up some gorgeous Balinese fabrics - basically treating myself as much as possible. The next morning I awoke at an absurd hour - the sweet staff at Laghawa knocked on my door to ensure I was awake and even prepared a small takeaway breakfast for me - and ventured out to the airport for the short flight to Yogyakarta on the Indonesian island of Java. I hated to say farewell to such an incredible, beautiful, friendly place as Bali. But, as with every stop on this journey, it was time to move on... though I have no doubt that I'll return one day. That we will return together one day. <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A return to Pregina Warung for duck satay on lemongrass skewers and Bintang</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A final and appropriate farewell at the airport, from none other than Barong</td></tr>
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Outlander Abroadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18318811583672765616noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8185241522378784026.post-68878029901129637892015-05-13T10:09:00.002-04:002015-05-13T10:09:36.727-04:00An Excursion to Lombok<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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If we had realized the amount of effort - the hours and hours of transit via van, boat, and taxi, and the waiting at every point, and the cost of all of that - perhaps we wouldn't have made the decision to spend just two nights, only one full day, on the island of Lombok. But, I'm happy we went into it without that knowledge. While it was a very short visit that required many, many hours in transit, it was indeed beautiful. </div>
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We awoke very early in Ubud, departing around 7 for a 2 hour van ride to the dock where we would catch a ferry for a 1.5 hour cramped ride to Senggigi on Lombok. We arrived tired, hungry, and mostly without a plan. I knew that one of the guys I had met way back in Bagan was surfing in Kuta, so we decided to go there. We negotiated with a taxi driver for a fare on the hour long drive, and once on our way we quickly noticed the differences between Lombok and Bali. We spotted dozens of mosques, hearing the calls to prayer over loudspeakers, and once we arrived in Kuta it was small, dry, and underdeveloped, with a certain rawness that Bali lacks. We quickly settled on Kuta Bay Guesthouse, securing their last room, a "deluxe" with air conditioning and hot water for 350,000 rupiah ($27). </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Departing Ubud</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Departing Ubud</td></tr>
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We dropped our things, donned our swimsuits, and sat down to a quick lunch of satay as readings from the Koran echoed from a loudspeaker across the road, and a group of local goats frolicked around the sandy path next to the guesthouse. We realized what a relatively poor area we were in as we walked out to the beach past a small fishing community, with tiny children playing between the small houses. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_Zj7h2QK1YqcVtNjimqU2dgAONBjzSds06fIVPIRE8CS_ylA57iUaucr1p7hWD0sUxGBBLL4NLmHPWdPB3qWP3pumH56vIKMVpWvu5jq0ZYAC80Q2Ig6ICI8QZzFw5eQ2jhxRiRP5asHd/s1600/Indonesia-241.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_Zj7h2QK1YqcVtNjimqU2dgAONBjzSds06fIVPIRE8CS_ylA57iUaucr1p7hWD0sUxGBBLL4NLmHPWdPB3qWP3pumH56vIKMVpWvu5jq0ZYAC80Q2Ig6ICI8QZzFw5eQ2jhxRiRP5asHd/s400/Indonesia-241.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Neighborhood goat</td></tr>
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Unfortunately, we had to fend off dozens of little kids selling bracelets, as well as older ladies selling sarongs, as soon as we stepped onto the beach. The beach was mostly empty when we wandered out, except for the occasional troupe of child vendors, and once we had diverted them we found a secluded, peaceful spot to relax. João waded out into the calm, still water, and I joined him, enjoying the solitude together. </div>
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As the tide began to go out and the sun began to go down, we walked back towards where we had come. More people began arriving, and we stopped for an ear of fresh grilled corn, slathered in sweet butter, which we sat on the sand to enjoy with a fresh coconut. There's truly nothing better than sitting on the beach with the man you love, eating sweet grilled corn and drinking from a coconut! We decided to stay a bit longer, João retrieving us another ear of corn while I waved over the coconut man for a second serving. We watched as locals moved through the low water, gathering mollusks, bent at the waist amongst the green rocks of the bay, as well as a lone kite surfer, an obvious student, as he slowly drifted along the still water. The sky slowly became more purple as the light grew dim, and we walked back before it got too dark, spotting two naked children from the neighboring community playing in the water and running along the beach as we walked.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A gathering of local, including the many sarong vendors carrying their wares on their heads</td></tr>
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We found a spot called Aldi's for dinner, where we shared seafood tempura, pineapple prawns, and most of a pizza, saving the rest of it for lunch the following day. As with the beach, we had to fend of bracelet-selling children during our meal. I did as I had grown accustomed to do, ignoring them and remaining largely indifferent, but it was really starting to bother João, as it had done for me in the past. It was interesting to see him bear witness to these things that have become almost part of the typical background to me, and discussing them. He and other people would engage with them when saying "no thank you" or "maybe later", which only encouraged them and made them all the more persistent. I don't know the best way to support the poor people in the community, but I definitely feel like buying bracelets off of small children isn't the right way to do it, and it reminded me of the struggles I had with the exact scenario during my time in Sapa.</div>
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The next morning was wonderfully lazy, and after sleeping in, we picked up breakfast at a nearby cafe with excellent homemade bread. After breakfast, we rented a scooter from the guesthouse and set off along a winding route over the mountain to quiet and secluded Mhawun Beach. We found a small shady spot under a small tree and sat down in the sand, then explored the beach, picking up colorful shells as João examined the waves for surfability. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_pd7f5AbM6AuHb6uoLaTBeIJzNf4w4gvSIYPBsev_YRrqwnYGzry6gN6xWvyhcyyoDi75IJxcMMdjmHcHNeaAS4T1H8oOM9Hza8FplXi0M1yLtzosyA3am4_Bs_4MGw3qN-ugPZOdYdJF/s1600/Indonesia-265.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_pd7f5AbM6AuHb6uoLaTBeIJzNf4w4gvSIYPBsev_YRrqwnYGzry6gN6xWvyhcyyoDi75IJxcMMdjmHcHNeaAS4T1H8oOM9Hza8FplXi0M1yLtzosyA3am4_Bs_4MGw3qN-ugPZOdYdJF/s400/Indonesia-265.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A fisherman casting his nets</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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As we walked back, we began to play in the waves themselves, which were incredibly strong for their size! João leapt over or dove through the waves as they came in, then stood his ground against the pounding pull of the water as it was sucked back off the beach. Both of us, and a handful of others, did battle with the waves, emerging covered in salt and sand, with huge laughing smiles across our faces and in disbelief over just how strong the water was. I finally retreated back to my little sarong in the sand, and we snacked on our leftover pizza, plus a fresh pineapple, grilled corn, and a coconut from various beachside vendors. No one came by to harass us with any potential bracelet or sarong sales. Later a group of young local teenage boys came out to the beach, laughing and joking, some strumming a guitar or smoking, while others did cartwheels and played in the waves. </div>
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As the sun began to get lower, we walked along the beach once more, encountering a naked baby who was gleefully playing at the waters edge - now that the tide was well out and he was far from the waves - as his father fished and gathered mollusks. </div>
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Finally we climbed back on the bike and cruised back over the mountain as others zipped by us with surfboards sitting in racks mounted on the sides of their bikes. Back on the other side, we drove along our beach, passed it, then went out near a small resort, where we went out to a small beach. We climbed out over the rocks to look back towards an incredible sunset of fiery reds and oranges, as silhouettes of fishermen passed in front of us. </div>
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We finally returned the bike to the guesthouse and showered, desperately needing to rinse off all that salt and sand, before venturing out for some dinner. We found a nearby restaurant with slow service but okay food playing a surf video on a loop. Two ladies tried to sell us sarongs repeatedly during our meal, and João was interested in actually buying one, but it took some hard negotiating to get them to leave us alone until the meal itself had ended! We wrapped up the night by taking advantage of our in-room DVD player and the guesthouse's "library" of DVDs - all pirated copies of course, though the movie we selected was so scratched up that we had to skip a section in the middle and Google the end when it stopped playing. Oh well!</div>
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The next morning we would need to make our way all the way back to Sanur, so we had agreed to join a group at 7:30 for a 1.5 hour drive back to the dock at Senggigi. Since the ferry wasn't scheduled to leave until 11, we walked along the beach, where dozens of locals were enjoying their Saturday morning - the women fully dressed in long sleeves and long pants and the children playing in the water. We made it to a small resort cafe where we bought coffee and watched surfers catch a distant break. </div>
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We returned to the dock by 10:30, but wound up sitting and waiting far longer than expected, snacking on Oreos and Pringles until we finally boarded and set off around noon. We made a stop at Gili T before heading back to Bali, with João sitting up top and me sitting below deck for the entire long, bumpy, ride. The waves were huge, the water choppy, and all very reminiscent of my ride out to Manta Point where I had gotten sick over the side of the boat! João got soaked from the waves up top, while I felt ill, clinging to my seat and willing us to arrive sooner! </div>
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Finally around 3pm we arrived back on land on Bali, then piled into a van for the hour drive back to Sanur. I grabbed the front seat since I had been feeling so ill during the boat ride, and most of the ride was lovely, as we passed green rice fields and a sort of topiary of Barong as we pulled into town. Somehow our driver got into some sort of a spat with another car, who flew past us flipping the bird out the window. Our driver then drove up and nearly cut off that driver again, which was more than a little unnerving in the front seat! But we did finally make it back to our familiar little refuge at Laghawa, and we were thrilled to be back in such a warm and familiar place. Though for all the difficulty of our journey to and from Lombok, the near perfection of our previous day on the secluded beach made it all worth it.</div>
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Outlander Abroadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18318811583672765616noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8185241522378784026.post-59942098099708735602015-05-07T13:06:00.000-04:002015-05-07T13:06:46.452-04:00Photoessay: Traditional Dances in Ubud<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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One of the most incredible parts of our stay in Ubud was getting the chance to see some of the traditional dances that the town is known for. While definitely a tourist experience, we walked away with far more knowledge and appreciation of the traditional customs and stories of the people of Bali.</div>
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Our first experience with the traditional dances happened entirely by accident, as we were walking past the Water Temple on the way back from the town clinic. Men stood outside selling tickets to the performance, called 'Joged Dance' presented by Cepuk Wirasa. The show was just about to begin, so we took a chance and bought a ticket. We were led inside to a small platform amongst the lotus blossoms where folding chairs had been set up in front of a small stage area in front of the temple. <br />
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Not long after we were seated, the musicians began, with drums and xylophone-style hammers on metal, making light pinging sounds, and a couple of flute players. After the musicians had performed a song on their own, the dancing began. Performers emerged as solos or in groups of two for individual performances. The first set was two pairs of women in an intricate performance involving detailed movements of fingers and eyes, a sort of isolationist style of dance that I could easily see reflected in modern styles.</div>
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Two more pairs of women emerged with sort of a cape over their skirts, lifting it as they moved, giving them the appearances of birds with fluttering wings.<br />
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A single man took the stage for another fantastic performance using similar isolationist movements as well as leaps from side to side. The show ended with a single woman who performed with a fan as a prop, later bringing two women up from the audience to dance with her.<br />
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We got a quick photo with the performers after the show, and we were thrilled at our luck to catch such a fun performance on such a whim, after a day spent mostly hiding out and visiting the doctor. <br />
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The other performance we saw also happened mostly by accident. As we passed by the Ubud Palace later in the week, we noticed that a performance by the Panca Artha Troupe would be starting soon, and it promised an appearance by Barong! We immediately decided to stay, and I scouted out a place to sit on the trunk of a tree up in a raised planter while Joao retrieved ice cream for us so we wouldn't starve! Just as before, the small orchestra played a piece to start the show, and we noticed that an older man with a grey mustache and a golden hammer for his instruments was the clear lead in the musical group, with every other musician taking their queues from him.</div>
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The very first performance of the night was one of my favorites, with three female dancers taking turns as solos or duets, making intricate sharp movements at incredible speeds, matching the amazing speed of the musicians. It was incredible to see the control they had over so many small areas of their body, moving almost completely independently of one another at once - the head and eyes, the arms and fingers, the hips and feet. <br />
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The first dance represented a story of Prince Lasem and Princess Rangkesari, though they are depicted by female dancers. Lasem abducts Rangkesari, but she refuses to yield to him. She then learns that her betrothed, the crown prince of Kahuripan, is coming to her rescue, and urges Lasem to set her free. Lasem would rather battle the prince, though he meets a raven (a third female dancer) on his way - a symbol of bad luck - which he chases away. (Though not shown in the dance, the story tells that Lasem is defeated and killed in his battle with the prince.) <br />
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Next, we saw the first appearance of Barong. Barong is a powerful and benevolent guardian spirit in Balinese folklore, represented by a lion with a red face (which very closely resembles a Pekingese dog). In the dance, two people wear the massive costume covered with fur. In this first appearance of Barong, we saw him playfully bouncing around - bobbing to the music - and getting teased by a monkey eating a banana. </div>
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Next, there was a longer storyline with multiple scenes, each with many dancers in incredible costumes. The story was taken from the Hindu epic Mahabharata, which tells of two giant brothers who were kings: Sunda and Upasunda. They had been given the power never to be harmed by any weapon, and they planned to conquer paradise, the home of gods and goddesses. </div>
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The king of the gods, Indra, decides to send the beautiful goddess Niatama and her nymphs Bidadaris to seduce the two giants.</div>
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The Bidadaris successfully seduce the giants' people, but Niatama succeeds in making the two giants fall madly in love for her. Out of their desire, the giants battle each other. This portion of the dance was incredibly entertaining - showing the male dancers' amazing athleticism as they displayed the power of the giants in battle. The battle ended not with defeat but in exhaustion. Once the brothers are released from Niatama's spell, they cancel their plans to conquer heaven.</div>
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Finally, we were shown the rest of the traditional story of Barong. His enemy, a demon queen of black magic named Rangda - who is said to represent a past queen of Indonesia - made an appearance. Rangda casts a black magic spell on a set of soldiers, who in their trance began to turn their weapons on themselves. Barong then goes to battle with Rangda, defeating her and restoring celestial order.</div>
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Finally, the dancers came out to take their bows.</div>
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While the dance performances were clearly put on for the tourists, they were still representative of traditional Balinese stories and customs. We loved the opportunity to learn more about the folklore and see the skill with which the dancers and musicians performed, and it was an incredibly entertaining way to spend an evening. I highly recommend taking the opportunity to see a show or two for yourself if you ever happen to make it to Ubud! <br />
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Outlander Abroadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18318811583672765616noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8185241522378784026.post-73893825832633834592015-05-04T12:05:00.002-04:002015-05-04T12:05:40.703-04:00Next Stop, Ubud<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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We didn't exactly have a plan for Ubud - just as we didn't for Sanur - and I quickly flipped through pages of my Lonely Planet as the driver we had hired from our hotel guided us past bright green rice fields and narrow, winding roads. We wound up at a spot called Santra Putra, after our driver had made some calls on our behalf based on Lonely Planet recommendations. A lady from the guest house actually met us to retrieve our luggage on her scooter, as the car wouldn't be able to reach the house! The surroundings were lovely, set in a gorgeous garden and surrounded by quiet rice fields. It would have been quite nice, but I had a feeling that it wasn't exactly what I wanted, without being entirely sure why. There was no air conditioning in the room and no breakfast provided, though there was a small kitchenette, but there was also not much around the street in terms of places to find food - it would be a long walk to the city center and most of the town's activities. Plus, a huge crowd of high school students had booked up all the other rooms, and I wasn't sure how that would turn out!<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8000001907349px;">Gorgeous gardens at Santra Putra</td></tr>
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On a whim, we decided to check out a place closer to the center. We gathered our things, walked down a narrow road and a steep set of stairs until we reached the actual roadway, where we caught a taxi as far as the market. Our driver mentioned a spot right in the middle of the market called Sania's House Bungalows, so we decided to take our chances. We lucked out - the place was a small oasis, with air con and a private porch at each room, and a gorgeous courtyard space with intricate carvings and stonework typical of Indonesian homes. The property itself felt like it bled over into an actual house - most likely the family of the owners and the workers. There was a small pool that we never used, breakfast was brought to us daily on our small private porch, and it was only 450,000 rupiah (about $35) per night.<br />
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjl2kbhQz0OggugbvPBDTvthDb_kExdLlM-61aFYqbeMmvYMcL2q-qBacZVvLGepeqq5inD5ZZONuMOmieokZzthvqvclIOLyT2J2G92WFVt4VyjCaCLD9wb8h_-pJSadnPfbC2Cdk1v-XJ/s1600/Indonesia-118.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjl2kbhQz0OggugbvPBDTvthDb_kExdLlM-61aFYqbeMmvYMcL2q-qBacZVvLGepeqq5inD5ZZONuMOmieokZzthvqvclIOLyT2J2G92WFVt4VyjCaCLD9wb8h_-pJSadnPfbC2Cdk1v-XJ/s1600/Indonesia-118.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8000001907349px;">The entryway to Sania's House Bungalows in the evening</td></tr>
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<div class="p2">
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<div class="p1">
Once we were settled in, we went out to explore and find dinner, surprised that the bustling market was closed and quiet now that it was dark. We wound up at a spot called Nomad, where we shared an outstanding meal of six typical Indonesian offerings served as tapas, as well as a tuna steak entree that was cooked to perfection. We finished up the night with our favorite sweet treat, Gelato Secrets.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZa8QwD1o5cKA9wvzUuSFYLU4r6SneJDDvAdbq4inJWkWk2vLqRvheK3CZvUWCbPiIn2TAdW6AoJhgKBLVcYEd4zCoZDA27_O_lJE-luyD49vZO3NBV3MUf_xmspBcZ-XJbKue4dAcItcd/s1600/Indonesia-114.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZa8QwD1o5cKA9wvzUuSFYLU4r6SneJDDvAdbq4inJWkWk2vLqRvheK3CZvUWCbPiIn2TAdW6AoJhgKBLVcYEd4zCoZDA27_O_lJE-luyD49vZO3NBV3MUf_xmspBcZ-XJbKue4dAcItcd/s1600/Indonesia-114.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEbVrmRlRFIZfgp7SHbkpGCZFXh-WZ4gKNvOc2dsoPXMp7XEdCPGexRrzCN2W9NPEvxNdg8BLmd-PQ2ZZEpzgPVP9Vx2DVH7XSSK5d4Ixja85XlTG97JxySg5xchasrdo27cgECpLwagv4/s1600/Indonesia-115.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEbVrmRlRFIZfgp7SHbkpGCZFXh-WZ4gKNvOc2dsoPXMp7XEdCPGexRrzCN2W9NPEvxNdg8BLmd-PQ2ZZEpzgPVP9Vx2DVH7XSSK5d4Ixja85XlTG97JxySg5xchasrdo27cgECpLwagv4/s1600/Indonesia-115.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5kgZ-mQjTF09nfFZpP_BglAxBu4STNnoelbmxST25W3pY2PrlukM2LawAzdMf8ncjzRL_Uz_8H0DfVQWCzJn1mKq1uDz-cAKH4ltfu1fcQZF6GO1vCYsbniuKtPPUPQEVh2nAO7WOCLUL/s1600/Indonesia-134.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5kgZ-mQjTF09nfFZpP_BglAxBu4STNnoelbmxST25W3pY2PrlukM2LawAzdMf8ncjzRL_Uz_8H0DfVQWCzJn1mKq1uDz-cAKH4ltfu1fcQZF6GO1vCYsbniuKtPPUPQEVh2nAO7WOCLUL/s1600/Indonesia-134.jpg" height="400" width="300" /></a></div>
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The next morning we took care of a few things and spent some time at Anomali Coffee for food and caffeine. Unfortunately, João's ear had been bothering him ever since we finished our dives in Sanur. While we had tried to treat it with some basic drops, it was hurting him enough that we finally ventured out to a local clinic later that afternoon. Sure enough, the staff doctor said his ear was incredibly inflamed, and she prescribed a whole mess of medications that thankfully helped him begin to feel better right away.<br />
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_WurcOehrGz6oQb7JYFpkHCYBn7Zl3jChRIa17I3LZ7EU3VDuUsiVWgCl4tMa6AwyT6pvp0qXW2rdao8WPKj-AUNwRYndjd-uPa6mMMewFj37WJ99Uiy4fz-r3weg7R6gmu3DoSEcvvOP/s1600/Indonesia-119.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_WurcOehrGz6oQb7JYFpkHCYBn7Zl3jChRIa17I3LZ7EU3VDuUsiVWgCl4tMa6AwyT6pvp0qXW2rdao8WPKj-AUNwRYndjd-uPa6mMMewFj37WJ99Uiy4fz-r3weg7R6gmu3DoSEcvvOP/s1600/Indonesia-119.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8000001907349px;">Motorbikes on motorbikes</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZL6LyXjEP0iWBwAJK0VOHnIXhyphenhyphen6Y2EGyzAmY3EWYcVKU3rINr4EzdOaeHjAiyCH694QX2_qPvsoZEoY3NRF79X4tpE_5amEhuvhaLQvOew5bCxAD1OTMDOreBYNV_LWO8BlvsqpwpT54k/s1600/Indonesia-120.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZL6LyXjEP0iWBwAJK0VOHnIXhyphenhyphen6Y2EGyzAmY3EWYcVKU3rINr4EzdOaeHjAiyCH694QX2_qPvsoZEoY3NRF79X4tpE_5amEhuvhaLQvOew5bCxAD1OTMDOreBYNV_LWO8BlvsqpwpT54k/s1600/Indonesia-120.jpg" height="400" width="266" /></a></div>
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As we walked back to the center of town from the clinic, we reached the Water Temple, where men stood outside selling tickets to a dance performance that was just about to begin. We took a chance and bought a ticket to the performance. While definitely an activity for the tourists, the dances we would catch during our time in Ubud would be some of our favorite - getting a glimpse into Balinesian culture and seeing the traditional stories acted out in front of us in vivid detail. I'm saving those photos for a special photoessay - next time!</div>
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The following morning, we got up and headed straight back to the Water Temple where we had seen the show, in order to see it and the magnificent pool of lotus blossoms in the daylight.</div>
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUxkd-j7VA2A_Sk95Dxzl_FTmAOPBV7nSJGCTdEEvAmZyZUGsS_qSJteZ81rwDUaGV1RJIzN85R2Hyjzu8MRCLh5yHyNHStFE3XeDnaO3Jm_LrY4sBp2FA70EOeuy39Xv1k6OnCRwrwMhz/s1600/Indonesia-142.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUxkd-j7VA2A_Sk95Dxzl_FTmAOPBV7nSJGCTdEEvAmZyZUGsS_qSJteZ81rwDUaGV1RJIzN85R2Hyjzu8MRCLh5yHyNHStFE3XeDnaO3Jm_LrY4sBp2FA70EOeuy39Xv1k6OnCRwrwMhz/s1600/Indonesia-142.jpg" height="400" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8000001907349px;">Throughout the day, every day, we spotted individuals leaving out offerings for various spirits.</td></tr>
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhm44W3Yiqq0Ahfdwy_ucgRDKP29Ac7Akz9oZTTo6KB_l235cv-IFWpd3UR7egNxtkmb4XHO7AeIysE3SSFFlnEr2hq8bevLQDj7x2Jiff9mauikHORNGfAtNnDVlHkEGmIkCUClBucPye-/s1600/Indonesia-143.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhm44W3Yiqq0Ahfdwy_ucgRDKP29Ac7Akz9oZTTo6KB_l235cv-IFWpd3UR7egNxtkmb4XHO7AeIysE3SSFFlnEr2hq8bevLQDj7x2Jiff9mauikHORNGfAtNnDVlHkEGmIkCUClBucPye-/s1600/Indonesia-143.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8000001907349px;">'Merica.</td></tr>
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFMqo_yf4lk3-WW8nrQIorPi6QM_EjIMVIlL3x3KIQSG_ysA22YYsBtF3s3cEdBS1XeY_qyp4_0xRghUtdmGYSitorKnq1FITl_HRX313weCJr51uPWMDsbxhY-r84ye0FM7otO81eUDUD/s1600/Indonesia-145.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFMqo_yf4lk3-WW8nrQIorPi6QM_EjIMVIlL3x3KIQSG_ysA22YYsBtF3s3cEdBS1XeY_qyp4_0xRghUtdmGYSitorKnq1FITl_HRX313weCJr51uPWMDsbxhY-r84ye0FM7otO81eUDUD/s1600/Indonesia-145.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8000001907349px;">Lotus blooms</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5aOo0hLwiWGclZHZWFtRmbDuYmz9LUkXUDiXyuHSYy6fDqQsFgONK17UToA4LAyoNZpu-BvI9CBFzcAO5JDYmWfTGyRMw3SyFJfOJkqLkDeuN7mpUi9Cfw_NbyNJXho8PF3CIWJMwukSZ/s1600/Indonesia-148.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5aOo0hLwiWGclZHZWFtRmbDuYmz9LUkXUDiXyuHSYy6fDqQsFgONK17UToA4LAyoNZpu-BvI9CBFzcAO5JDYmWfTGyRMw3SyFJfOJkqLkDeuN7mpUi9Cfw_NbyNJXho8PF3CIWJMwukSZ/s1600/Indonesia-148.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2GBxtcoMEiDMM5e1KJOlyAMFsDBE41DRJyKFuae8S9poVJCR6V2YAqokMq17omSjMAsnJnrLnFb4P2-kkkqbn0jXzmToV3Om5S0yXwGihv0wCgsujsCkMp76_sMrUFDJqrjX-vQJvCREV/s1600/Indonesia-152.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2GBxtcoMEiDMM5e1KJOlyAMFsDBE41DRJyKFuae8S9poVJCR6V2YAqokMq17omSjMAsnJnrLnFb4P2-kkkqbn0jXzmToV3Om5S0yXwGihv0wCgsujsCkMp76_sMrUFDJqrjX-vQJvCREV/s1600/Indonesia-152.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a></div>
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiS0V603CeSz5QFHfP7IV54hfEjYYdkD9GOfLtVqn1P67MCtpln-S25ikpC4ixpLo16xIloWfs2zd-By8-otBPhgL0fD7fWNCXGhlTuTrXP9EL40Qey0g9ZhbUmUASOYc1nexiiFN72iRQE/s1600/Indonesia-155.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiS0V603CeSz5QFHfP7IV54hfEjYYdkD9GOfLtVqn1P67MCtpln-S25ikpC4ixpLo16xIloWfs2zd-By8-otBPhgL0fD7fWNCXGhlTuTrXP9EL40Qey0g9ZhbUmUASOYc1nexiiFN72iRQE/s1600/Indonesia-155.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8000001907349px;">An offering at the Water Temple</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4gMnqZCbRv2sO11OCY2ox5i5ucMN9mmJjzoCChIeHYlxrzO6h09DWAegWJd79JBIb65KiRrV0Ey098ANQj67pP01FxaXrQAJJhdwzCIE30IPFVZNPZRA4lLnf8KFJ3brCfnuEB1TjNDPz/s1600/Indonesia-158.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4gMnqZCbRv2sO11OCY2ox5i5ucMN9mmJjzoCChIeHYlxrzO6h09DWAegWJd79JBIb65KiRrV0Ey098ANQj67pP01FxaXrQAJJhdwzCIE30IPFVZNPZRA4lLnf8KFJ3brCfnuEB1TjNDPz/s1600/Indonesia-158.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a></div>
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Next, we walked over to the Ubud Palace to explore the grounds.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEix2jxdtK3BWDIZ6MFKdbMNy2ip0oLN-TyQgPXUP-PiNEsg6fTLOGFcggzw_SZpKqL3TBQlHALUNJ6ImF8hxV6BsyN98D0SpeOb9vZHp52gWuUJupjVh1LA8t-CAR7Lq-ahXCXRUEKHhknx/s1600/Indonesia-159.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEix2jxdtK3BWDIZ6MFKdbMNy2ip0oLN-TyQgPXUP-PiNEsg6fTLOGFcggzw_SZpKqL3TBQlHALUNJ6ImF8hxV6BsyN98D0SpeOb9vZHp52gWuUJupjVh1LA8t-CAR7Lq-ahXCXRUEKHhknx/s1600/Indonesia-159.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWqazkchUhwhAaJxwpvR8dmsphKOcVaezHejUtZELO-AsqwuJ3tQ8AMsKpwOgFUCEpZ7B3w21OIe19mOYe8G-ZEa43eYKNo8D9Jp5joDYxZrSItyFKZy714BIVPr7il2ck6pQAoGpV2KSl/s1600/Indonesia-160.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWqazkchUhwhAaJxwpvR8dmsphKOcVaezHejUtZELO-AsqwuJ3tQ8AMsKpwOgFUCEpZ7B3w21OIe19mOYe8G-ZEa43eYKNo8D9Jp5joDYxZrSItyFKZy714BIVPr7il2ck6pQAoGpV2KSl/s1600/Indonesia-160.jpg" height="400" width="266" /></a></div>
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWKjV0R3nGJ3qtRzQSoE_kLVvHzzsTEYeAKUU7BGO9VIX3Tb6UuoIbvLjB5RiD-G-qyf9z8g2bJjEDWuiilblnSwTFAYObDyx8JtwEkARamYiDcvru05cgHm0wAeYAd5w37d-2QG-xwWD0/s1600/Indonesia-161.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWKjV0R3nGJ3qtRzQSoE_kLVvHzzsTEYeAKUU7BGO9VIX3Tb6UuoIbvLjB5RiD-G-qyf9z8g2bJjEDWuiilblnSwTFAYObDyx8JtwEkARamYiDcvru05cgHm0wAeYAd5w37d-2QG-xwWD0/s1600/Indonesia-161.jpg" height="400" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8000001907349px;">I love that even the statues are dressed up</td></tr>
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdzCig8u6juxQguyK89YyGAigTqY0zww1FLBccqCMuIGo1VJpffoqztbIKP7cAGkWIao2dUAZlRo8DnrpDEYMuIm7x7ZM1OvPE_jzTWn2VaDe42tySZIj-FnCdwPxjP2hC8fniYCp2bVQP/s1600/Indonesia-162.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdzCig8u6juxQguyK89YyGAigTqY0zww1FLBccqCMuIGo1VJpffoqztbIKP7cAGkWIao2dUAZlRo8DnrpDEYMuIm7x7ZM1OvPE_jzTWn2VaDe42tySZIj-FnCdwPxjP2hC8fniYCp2bVQP/s1600/Indonesia-162.jpg" height="400" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8000001907349px;">Barong!</td></tr>
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Finally we visited Museum Puri Lukisan, where we spent a good amount of time looking at an exhibit of work by I Gusti Nyoman Lempad, a local artist who painted classic Balinese stories. Through the descriptions of many of the works, we were able to pick up many of the stories related to the dances we had been seeing, as well as the Balinesian folklore in general. There was also a little Kama Sutra section which was curtained off as adults-only! Throughout the exhibit there were also a number of beautifully fluid wood carvings decorating the space, though these were created by another artist.<br />
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhq1VTOLhhf1GCvWDJR3ZG-ed2rmN2TI0wppYdAKB7UVlNu7lBekL0NyT7Dv8BFAUoNPH3mFUD4y1ROEB9fXq1MnYI1EG65CSrbLFcWL2LVd5yWHOgM0VgeNAcebLgtU3AXaPX_ULBsEEdt/s1600/Indonesia-163.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhq1VTOLhhf1GCvWDJR3ZG-ed2rmN2TI0wppYdAKB7UVlNu7lBekL0NyT7Dv8BFAUoNPH3mFUD4y1ROEB9fXq1MnYI1EG65CSrbLFcWL2LVd5yWHOgM0VgeNAcebLgtU3AXaPX_ULBsEEdt/s1600/Indonesia-163.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8000001907349px;">More offerings as we walked to the museum</td></tr>
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By the time we were finished, I was starving, but we realized there were still two more galleries to see! We breezed through one of them, full of massive, intricate, colorful paintings of Balinese characters and folklore. We decided to try and return later for the final gallery, sitting down at nearby Cafe Lotus for lunch. The chicken and pork satay weren't bad, but the restaurant was clearly banking on their lovely open air patio and view overlooking the lotus pond at the Water Temple. </div>
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Next, we walked through the market, where I quickly learned that prices on the typical tourist items - tank tops and flowy pants, various knickknacks - were a bit higher than in other places I had been around Asia, simply due to the influx of Western tourists (thanks in no small part to the success of 'Eat, Pray, Love'). I was able to successfully negotiate prices down a bit as long as I was discreet and didn't disrupt their selling to other tourists, though João was somewhat horrified and amused at my attempts to negotiate on prices that, to a Westerner, were already so cheap. While I had been treating our time in Bali as a vacation within my travels - and increasing my spending levels - my frugal backpacker senses definitely showed themselves a few times! <br />
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From the market, we passed by our hotel and arrived at a woodcarving studio at the end of the road, where Joao selected a small mask with multi-tonal wood and a long, curved open mouth. We then sat down at a spot called Tutmak Cafe, sipping coffee while I wrote and João painted, as the sun dipped lower in the sky outside. We continued walking through the side streets as the sun was setting, stopping in a shop with bizarre - yet beautiful - carved animal skulls and strings of wooden beads. We then were drawn into another store with a gorgeous custom motorcycle sitting in the window. The boutique was called Kismit, and we chatted at length with the store's owner, an American named Chloe. The merchandise was sort of Earthy-meets-motorcycle-rocker, and I picked out a beautiful phoenix necklace with a feather that hung separately down the back. Kismit also a had a separate cafe upstairs, boasting the fastest wifi on the island, but we decided to keep moving in hopes of catching a particular dance that evening.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh39p42dYmOI5GODSpNNJ6vz6DE0dxVsCSDQaBYVk5CbzpXPq0Ehyphenhyphen1CJeivVoDrrluQdvOrwTzGLJ9FCX0c2UjQQuvPZeEY-ASZbTEl3AGSe2QlAyos-KW9xEghc_LCnJrvwsq0Jr9c0qm0/s1600/Indonesia-170.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh39p42dYmOI5GODSpNNJ6vz6DE0dxVsCSDQaBYVk5CbzpXPq0Ehyphenhyphen1CJeivVoDrrluQdvOrwTzGLJ9FCX0c2UjQQuvPZeEY-ASZbTEl3AGSe2QlAyos-KW9xEghc_LCnJrvwsq0Jr9c0qm0/s1600/Indonesia-170.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPV0r-f-0Dxe2tCpa7eMSMN_yacvBp1ZgF4RSjfZlIMtvzau1szCd2pzKkju7RQ1Gx4O9e0Y58LQVHnjvCB0GpjhcOd1EVFf3_DPjUKCT5plDpog5LuAmWmI3-Juugr6l6_ZP24G9ccQkt/s1600/Indonesia-174.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPV0r-f-0Dxe2tCpa7eMSMN_yacvBp1ZgF4RSjfZlIMtvzau1szCd2pzKkju7RQ1Gx4O9e0Y58LQVHnjvCB0GpjhcOd1EVFf3_DPjUKCT5plDpog5LuAmWmI3-Juugr6l6_ZP24G9ccQkt/s1600/Indonesia-174.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a></div>
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We wound up being unable to locate the side street where the dance was located, and we were already a bit hungry, so we changed our plans to visit a restaurant my friend Susie had recommended called the Dirty Duck. On our way, we passed a man sitting alone in a tiny shop - really just a small alcove on Hanoman Street, under a single fluorescent bulb, quietly carving wooden masks. We watched him work for a bit before approaching him, then spoke with him about the masks and the wood as he carved. His name was Geru, and he told us that he used to work in a factory-style shop until he decided he wanted to carve his own, more intricate and creative pieces. He was quiet and humble, just like the space he used, and let his work speak for itself. I selected one with loops of vines and leaves, in a multicolored wood with tan and grey with a slight sheen. He wrapped it up tightly in layers of newsprint, until I was carrying a small rugby ball form under my arm.<br />
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuGNP0HrDB5z5QIahm7w-hgQp_romxLVh6Vk7awEa5L9M33XtSZDtL_L_YibR3O3N71ejpJF3Bs2DsZjlGErrZPWz7ONCsVmSpz4N6ylqB3B01TAByQcjIcY9hYQJte0j7xQqLH-dkcYF6/s1600/Indonesia-176.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuGNP0HrDB5z5QIahm7w-hgQp_romxLVh6Vk7awEa5L9M33XtSZDtL_L_YibR3O3N71ejpJF3Bs2DsZjlGErrZPWz7ONCsVmSpz4N6ylqB3B01TAByQcjIcY9hYQJte0j7xQqLH-dkcYF6/s1600/Indonesia-176.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8000001907349px;">Mine is the middle piece on the top row</td></tr>
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_pqndRqjgcpZjVj_uwCTm8rnHvj447tbfyUEk0H8miS5T5zhwq8DYFWMOlxXhTxuEE2KSqzyr11VQi-giAHUFe74_PcR3pmhW9MjyG-pkeBJrkghTvv7i7HgarF2kd5AVWKdwckq7ayZs/s1600/Indonesia-177.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_pqndRqjgcpZjVj_uwCTm8rnHvj447tbfyUEk0H8miS5T5zhwq8DYFWMOlxXhTxuEE2KSqzyr11VQi-giAHUFe74_PcR3pmhW9MjyG-pkeBJrkghTvv7i7HgarF2kd5AVWKdwckq7ayZs/s1600/Indonesia-177.jpg" height="400" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8000001907349px;">Geru at work</td></tr>
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We walked a bit further, passing a number of restaurants, cafes, and yoga shops, until we reached the Dirty Duck. It was definitely the end of the rush when we arrived, and nearly the end of dinner service, so we were able to snag a secluded bungalow-style table, set completely apart from other patrons, amidst a lush garden filled with statues and fountains. We ordered crispy duck and a lemony chicken and a bottle of wine, staying until we were practically ushered out as it had completely closed for the evening!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNdue2ErgzjxXbR_yESzn44BRG_cpOTHlRL8TQIbZgi6QacAFG0XecQseX9QvbKS2jtvahvu1C0g-C5o4z6SeRagctILoliVexhhnpEYV2Zf1c-393E1uCkC_I0g-WSOYYaBtno9pLP3e_/s1600/Indonesia-180.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNdue2ErgzjxXbR_yESzn44BRG_cpOTHlRL8TQIbZgi6QacAFG0XecQseX9QvbKS2jtvahvu1C0g-C5o4z6SeRagctILoliVexhhnpEYV2Zf1c-393E1uCkC_I0g-WSOYYaBtno9pLP3e_/s1600/Indonesia-180.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a></div>
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The next morning, we set out with João intending to see the rest of the exhibit at the museum, and myself wanting a foot massage. On our way out, we noticed a large truck on the side of the road, which a group of women were loading full of rubble from a construction project. They rapidly walked back and forth to the truck, carrying huge loads of concrete in baskets on their heads, emptying them into the truck, and returning to the construction site. It wasn't the first or the last time we had seen women carrying loads on their heads, but I was shocked at how heavy these looked! We stood in awe for a few moments, until we went our separate ways for the next hour. <br />
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhj1lmU8y3Bbmfk0cPqlQmtLa-LTE-LG96TW0tg1ZMNnXetMqavZbykDJxyMLr1MfFMkKwy8E-j0GI7lWYSGtRevnxeaLi1ymA_slLN0Znr0Aaae1ZkA7-3pNC5PHlbk5S-HNrouixSL0BV/s1600/Indonesia-181.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhj1lmU8y3Bbmfk0cPqlQmtLa-LTE-LG96TW0tg1ZMNnXetMqavZbykDJxyMLr1MfFMkKwy8E-j0GI7lWYSGtRevnxeaLi1ymA_slLN0Znr0Aaae1ZkA7-3pNC5PHlbk5S-HNrouixSL0BV/s1600/Indonesia-181.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8000001907349px;">Skirt. Flip flops. Basket of concrete.</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMevNyhD2EgmkHKUqEzdwCjcz0PDMsW8p6RTzMRd2aWN2CiEPSdiue9WCu43MfacLq3Ov9wIIwVwC_X4_2pHVw4xlUPzVLGx-jzlovTDF1JmT5wMGuJv8jX-ds-Q18yyV-rgPfU6woyB_x/s1600/Indonesia-182.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMevNyhD2EgmkHKUqEzdwCjcz0PDMsW8p6RTzMRd2aWN2CiEPSdiue9WCu43MfacLq3Ov9wIIwVwC_X4_2pHVw4xlUPzVLGx-jzlovTDF1JmT5wMGuJv8jX-ds-Q18yyV-rgPfU6woyB_x/s1600/Indonesia-182.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a></div>
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVjcnqWrr54qZyICThyB0ug-NZDmAkXaujhzo_aMt9_3LW2O9zthW6aNje1CNx-eNJ7ZetmzzkDlpKOYETC9a8UqxUINfgoy6ZgvcAlhrHfe8EuoerilRx8pVY2YsZtGALxrdjVYRqY18X/s1600/Indonesia-186.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVjcnqWrr54qZyICThyB0ug-NZDmAkXaujhzo_aMt9_3LW2O9zthW6aNje1CNx-eNJ7ZetmzzkDlpKOYETC9a8UqxUINfgoy6ZgvcAlhrHfe8EuoerilRx8pVY2YsZtGALxrdjVYRqY18X/s1600/Indonesia-186.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8000001907349px;">A slightly lighter load</td></tr>
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After reconvening, we decided to return to Kismit for lunch. We sat on the upstairs patio and sampled from their incredible vegetarian menu, enjoying the fresh air and the breeze. I had a sandwich with brie, apple, caramelized onion, and tamarind jam, while João had an 'Asian Bowl', followed by coffee and cookies for both of us.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiR04iw5mtjKUUESMpI1MaUfLqEeR4py5CDpa2WzYeaKdlA9Ubn7KSohXIwJ07ml8Cvlj-BGX6pSBXs2kj7TSIwTnHM83U4J9-i34EcFXpkQlCKP2tginSOkejPMKRwSdigFCOOt3TgPwH/s1600/Indonesia-187.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiR04iw5mtjKUUESMpI1MaUfLqEeR4py5CDpa2WzYeaKdlA9Ubn7KSohXIwJ07ml8Cvlj-BGX6pSBXs2kj7TSIwTnHM83U4J9-i34EcFXpkQlCKP2tginSOkejPMKRwSdigFCOOt3TgPwH/s1600/Indonesia-187.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a></div>
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqYe4likU-jQTtRCBw6upBsQGrMM9oNOCI49Q5aztukVyXJNBK_k5DypnYnni2DfOCpVlP32NcA6iZlPjEUyx0p0o_J1Wct7K1XlqXDGx7IkO5Ds1VxWlYrs8YbX7uMLKH2dI9jbPkgsCb/s1600/Indonesia-188.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqYe4likU-jQTtRCBw6upBsQGrMM9oNOCI49Q5aztukVyXJNBK_k5DypnYnni2DfOCpVlP32NcA6iZlPjEUyx0p0o_J1Wct7K1XlqXDGx7IkO5Ds1VxWlYrs8YbX7uMLKH2dI9jbPkgsCb/s1600/Indonesia-188.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8000001907349px;">Local schoolgirls giggling and running through the street</td></tr>
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We had planned to head back to the clinic for a followup appointment that evening, but as we passed the Ubud Palace, we noticed that their nightly dance performance was starting relatively soon, and it was one we had really hoped to see! It promised an appearance by Barong, a friendly spirit we had seen depicted all over the island (I'll explain Barong's story a bit more next time). </div>
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We were thrilled to have caught such a wonderful performance so entirely by accident, and we were all smiles as we made our way to the clinic. Thankfully, everything checked out just fine, and we likely wouldn't have any issue getting João back into the ocean for a dive in a few days' time. We meandered back into town, returning to a place just near where we had spotted our wood carver, to a swanky little restaurant we had spotted the night before with a gorgeous entryway. It was full of expats and zenned-out yogis, and of course, the menu was vegetarian. Thankfully they had a few tuna items on the menu, so we ordered both a spicy tuna sushi roll and a plate with tuna satay and curry, along with a big bowl with a mix of tuna and veggies. We stuffed ourselves full between dinner and a quick bite of dessert, then made our way back to the hotel to make arrangements for a quick trip out to Lombok the following morning.<br />
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We could have easily spent more time in Ubud, and there was still quite a bit more to explore. But we wanted to return to Sanur, and we wanted at least a glimpse of another island, so Lombok awaited us. Little did we know just how much effort it would take for such a short, but incredible stay!</div>
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Outlander Abroadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18318811583672765616noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8185241522378784026.post-60878391417353267532015-04-28T14:28:00.000-04:002015-04-28T14:28:00.597-04:00Diving in Bali<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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While João had grown up next to the ocean and surfed most of his life, he had never really had an interest in seeing what lay beneath the waves. But this trip had given me a renewed interest in diving, and after a friend told me just how amazing it was in Bali, I knew I wanted to spend some serious time in the ocean during our time there. I managed to convince João to give it a try, showing him photos of colorful reefs and incredible marine life, tempting his artist eyes to view this entirely different world. And so, we wound up at Crystal Divers, a shop at Sanur in Bali, discussing rates for dive courses. I already had my Open Water Diver certification, and after taking a few dive trips over the past few months, I wanted to upgrade to the Advanced certification, while João would be pursuing his Open Water. </div>
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What seemed like it would be a straightforward process (sign up, pay, take the course, dive, done), became slightly more complicated when João revealed he had had asthma as a child, meaning he would need to take a lung capacity test to dive. We scheduled a visit with the doctor, and while he confirmed that his lung capacity was fantastic, we discovered that he actually had a slight ear infection that needed to be cleared up before he could dive. We had to delay our plans by a few days while we waited for his ear to heal, but the extra days relaxing in Sanur were wonderful, and we truly didn't mind the extra time. Two days later, João began the first of two days at the dive shop, spending the mornings in a classroom setting and the afternoons practicing techniques in the pool. I spent those days mostly relaxing on the beach, reading, writing, and getting in a run along the beach one morning. </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Joao and his instructor Amin for the first day of classroom and pool work</td></tr>
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For my Advanced course, I simply had to do some bookwork - reading and answering questions at the end of particular chapters - then complete five dives over the course of two days to practice specific techniques - deep diving and navigation - as well as a couple of 'specialties' - drift diving, wreck diving, and fish identification. Once João finished the classroom and pool work, his course required four 'check out' dives over two days. He and I would go our separate ways for our first days of diving, then spend the second day diving together.<br />
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Day 1</h2>
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While João would be staying closer to Sanur for his first dives, practicing some basic techniques in a shallower setting surrounded by incredible sealife, I was headed to Manta Point, Tugu at Nusa Penida, and Blue Corner at Nusa Lembogan for my first three dives of my advanced course. The ride out to Manta Point was a long one, and we rode in a small speedboat that was tossed up and down over the choppy waves as we cruised to our dive spot. I felt increasingly sick with the constant jolting, the rising nausea like the surging waves around me, and it wasn't any better when we stopped. I looked out over the side of the boat trying to see the gorgeous scenery, the rock cliffs coming out of the water, but I couldn't focus on anything but sky sea sky sea sky sea as the boat shot up and down in the waves. My instructor, 'Magic' Toto, tried to calm me down, explaining what to do if I felt sick and needed to vomit underwater, as I was clearly a bit green sitting in the boat. Everyone else had already gotten in and descended, and I was worried that my course would be finished before it had even started! Determined, I put on my gear and sat up on the edge of the boat. And then, I turned and lost my breakfast all over the side of the boat. With a quick apology to the crew and a quick prayer of thanks that I had gotten sick before my descent - the last thing I wanted to do was vomit underwater - I rolled off the back of the boat and into the water. </div>
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I still felt a bit foggy as we slowly descended, and I struggled to clear my ears at one point, when I looked up to see a massive Manta Ray glide by off to one side. I was equally thrilled to see the incredible animal and scared that it would be the only one I would see, while I was still so focused on my own body and my descent and unable to fully take in my surroundings. Thankfully, I would have nothing to worry about in that respect! As this was my deep dive, we did our full descent to 30 meters (100 feet), doing all the necessary exercises for my certification, while taking a look around for any Mola Mola (sadly, we didn't find any). We gradually ascended up a bit, passing a sea snake in bands of grey and blue swimming through the water, and a colorful nudibranch on the ocean floor. </div>
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Then, as we got higher, we saw them - a whole group of mantas, swimming in big loops, massive, majestic creatures gliding through the water like sea angels. I was blown away… I lost count of how many there were - big and small, moving in a massive underwater circle - a mating dance. Toto and I spent the rest of the dive staring in disbelief and wonder, no camera between the two of us, with a mass of divers all around us watching the creatures. </div>
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Finally it was time to wrap up, and we swam far away from the crowd, where we could see nothing but clear ocean, stopping at a depth of 5 meters for our 3 minute safety stop. And less than a minute later, my eyes grew huge as I quickly pointed behind Toto at the absolutely enormous manta swimming right towards us. And it wasn't just one. The entire line of mantas - I counted 12 as they swam by, but I can't be sure - flew right beside, over, and all around us, making their loops. It was absolutely hands down one of the most incredible things I have ever witnessed. Toto and I were both practically screaming and dancing with excitement under the water as the mantas glided all around us. When we finally surfaced, he told me that was his best manta experience ever, and he has over 13,000 dives! It certainly made up for being so sick before the dive!!</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Magic Toto's dive log entry - dive # 13,492 - for our Manta experience</td></tr>
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Thankfully the boat went to a much, much calmer spot for the second dive - Tuga at Nusa Penida - though the ride over was still plenty choppy. I lay down on a bench and squeezed my eyes shut to try and keep the world from bobbing up and down so much. One of the other divers felt so sick that he actually sat out the second dive entirely! Toto and I went in last to give ourselves a proper surface interval, and the dive - this one for fish identification - was a very peaceful, calm, easy one, as we swam over thorny forests of brittle coral. We spotted an enormous lion fish, a colorful blue and yellow nudibranch, an orangutang crab, a massive mantis shrimp, clown trigger fish, a school of butterfly fish, plus boxfish, needlefish, bannerfish, angel fish, surgeon fish, and bluefin trivali. In my mind it's a blur of beautiful colors, and I imagined how João would react to taking it all in.</div>
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After the second dive, I rested out on the front of the boat, eating my lunch, soaking in the sun, before we moved on to the third location - Blue Corner at Nusa Lembogan - for a drift dive. Toto was sneaky and actually allowed everyone to get in the water before asking the boat to shift to a slightly different spot which he swore was better, and I trusted him! We plunged in and descended, and with the current it felt like everything was suddenly in fast motion! As we floated, we stayed nearly motionless ourselves as the current carried us. We had a couple of big sightings - first, a school of dolphins right at eye level passed by, then we saw two eagle rays and an enormous Napoleon ress fish. Then, another pod of dolphins passed, closer to the surface this time! After that, the currents became all mixed up, and it seemed we were swimming against the current both to peek over a large shelf and against the current again to go back, the water a mix of warm and very, very cold. As we ended the dive, we saw unicorn fish with what looked like long, pointy noses, and other fish with gorgeous forked tails with touches of electric blue. </div>
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Finally back on board the boat, we compared notes with the rest of the group - no molas, but everyone had seen the dolphins - and I curled up again to ride out the bumpy return trip, which was thankfully not so bad as the way out. I was still a bit out of it and fairly exhausted when we got back, and I was anxious to find João and hear how his day of diving had gone. While he had struggled with some of the more technical aspects - totally normal for a first day of diving - the sights he was able to take in were amazing, he said, and he was looking forward to seeing if the next day would be better as he would hopefully be more comfortable under the water and able to actually absorb his surroundings more.<br />
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Day 2</h2>
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Our departure for our shared day of diving was incredibly early, as we met at the shop at 6:45, piling into a comfortable van for a two hour drive to our next dive site, Tulamben, the site of a wrecked US cargo ship sunk by a Japanese sub during WWII. João and his instructor Uning were joined by Mark, who was working on a Dive Master certification, and I was paired with Amin, my instructor for the day. We passed gorgeous tiers of bright green rice fields as we drove north, finally arriving in a much drier spot missing the lush greens with had just passed. We climbed out of the van and geared up in the parking lot, and local women portered our tanks down to the shore on their heads! This was my first shore entry, walking into the surf over smooth black rocks and descending by simply following the sloping ocean bottom downward. </div>
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The wreck itself loomed over us on a steep slope, covered in corals, surrounded by fish. Amin led me a bit away from the wreck at first, down to a deeper spot where we found a gorgeous - and huge! - blue nudibranch with a golden 'crown' coming out of its back - appropriately named a Cinderella nudibranch. We worked our way back up to the wreck next, spotting some lion fish and mantis shrimp, as well as dozens of other colorful varieties of sealife. We didn't really go into the wreck, but we did go through a couple of openings where it was still open to the surface above for safety purposes, but also provided gorgeous views with the tangled metal wreckage and the light from above. </div>
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As we emerged from the wreck, off to the right we saw a garden of eels, their long, slender necks curving out of the ground like something from a Tim Burton movie. Looping back around, we saw a huge sweetlips before slowly making it back towards the shore and emerging. It was wonderful to see how thrilled João was coming up from the wreck - he had succeeded in feeling more comfortable with the technical components of the dive and been able to soak in his surroundings - and it was wonderful to be able to share the experience with him. </div>
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After a rest, a snack, and some navigation review, we made our way back to the shore for our second dive. I spent the first part of my dive navigating a small out/back and a square in a shallow sandy area before we swam around small outcrops of coral out a bit from the wreck, taking our time to view a whole family of 'nemos' - two larger ones and bunches of itty bitty ones - in a large pink anemone which seemed to be all alone in the sand. We made our way back to one side of the wreck, seeing a juvenile ribbon eel with a small streak of blue poking out of the sand. We then visited a massive grouping of cleaner shrimp that Amin obviously knew well, as he took out his regulator and opened his mouth, the cleaner shrimp creeped over to him, climbed in his mouth, and began to clean! </div>
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After Amin's trip to the underwater dentist, we made our way back over to the sandy bottom area, to a spot Uning had dubbed the 'barracuda dentist'. Sure enough, there was a large barracuda just hanging out, mouth slightly agape, getting his teeth cleaned by tiny fish! We swam up to him, me sitting close by enough to where the barracuda actually turned at one point and swam right at me! He then circled around in a small loop, returning to his dentist appointment. After that we left him be, returning slowly to the surface and making our way out over the slippery rocks.</div>
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After removing and stowing all our gear, we rinsed off and went to a small restaurant around the corner for a meal of nasi gorang, then piled back into the van for the long drive back to the shop. Once we returned, we filled out our logs and completed our paperwork, officially becoming certified as Open Water and Advanced Divers! That day also marked my one year travel anniversary, so we capped off the day with a tasty dinner and a relaxing massage.</div>
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The entire diving experience in Bali was absolutely unforgettable for both of us, and ever since we've been looking for ways to get under the ocean again... including just a few days later. After stopping in Ubud and visiting neighboring island Lombok, we would return to Sanur for one more dive trip, in hopes of giving João his own experience with the mantas. I'm so thrilled that I was able to introduce that world to João, and give him a glimpse under the waves that he had grown up with. <br />
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Outlander Abroadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18318811583672765616noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8185241522378784026.post-83900386880625851222015-04-02T10:24:00.001-04:002015-04-02T10:24:30.169-04:00Three Weeks in Paradise: An Introduction to Indonesia<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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Somewhere back in Vietnam, there was a small but significant change in my relationship with the man I had visited in Portugal months earlier. When I had left Portugal, we knew we wanted it to continue in some way, but we didn't really know what that would mean. How we would feel after months apart. If we could wait until my travels were over to meet again and see what happened. But sometime around Vietnam, we had a number of conversations that brought us both to the realization that we wanted to not just wait and see, but really pursue this. And as a result, he decided to fly all the way to Asia to visit me. We settled on Bali, planning to spend three weeks exploring and relaxing in paradise, just after my run through China.</div>
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Since we were flying in from vastly different places, I arrived the evening before João. While the flight with Philippine Airlines was quite nice - they showed a movie and even asked the tallest, largest people on the plane if they would like to have the exit row - the layover in Manilla was borderline awful - long bathroom queues, no wifi, and they only accepted local cash - no cards - so I couldn't buy any food or water. Then upon arriving into Bali, customs agents searched every inch of my luggage and scrutinized my passport, curious as to why I had made so many trips in and out of Thailand (because it's logistically convenient?). Though I was tired and delirious, as it was well past midnight at this point, I joked around with the one officer who could speak English, teasing the other officer who struggled to get all of my personal items back into my over-stuffed bag. Thankfully, I had booked a few nights on points at a Marriott Courtyard resort at Nusa Dua to begin this experience as a proper vacation. As my taxi neared the property, even in the dark, I could tell that we had entered what felt like a gated community, with trimmed and manicured grasses and hedges, and huge statues in every roundabout. Entering the hotel, I was given tea and shown my room, where I collapsed into the massive, comfortable bed, slowly falling into a deep, restful sleep that I had been desperately needing after the last few weeks.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Roundabout in the daylight</td></tr>
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I awoke nervous and excited for João's arrival, and I spent the day slowly exploring the resort "neighborhood". There were other resort properties in this same section of the island, with separate beach access points and a shopping center within the "grounds" where I picked up a new bikini and a few essentials. That evening, I booked a taxi to the airport - with a driver named Elfin - and though I brought a book to read as I waited, I kept my eyes glued to the gate where he would be arriving. An hour passed, as taxi drivers jockeyed for position, shouting names of the people they were supposed to pick up, in hopes that the person who just walked out of customs was their passenger. After another half hour, just as Elfin came to ask if he had arrived, I spotted him. He saw me and smiled, starting towards the duty free store that the exit forces passengers through, then hesitated, coming straight to me for a brief but strong kiss, before we met at the exit for a proper embrace, then held hands in the taxi, in total disbelief that he was actually there, in Bali, and we were together again.</div>
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The next couple of days flew by, as we rented cruiser bikes from the hotel and took advantage of the gorgeous private beach, set in a quiet cove with small waves breaking in the distance. We had a fantastic dinner at the shopping center, in a restaurant called Frangipani, tasting delicious pork grilled on skewers of lemongrass and sampling a local white wine. We treated ourselves to a heavenly foot massage. We got in a workout at the hotel gym, and we relaxed in the gorgeous pool, making friends with a man from Egypt and his wife from Iran. We had a tasty if awkward dinner at the hotel, as a group having a meeting replaced the peaceful music with long speeches into a microphone. <br />
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We actually hoped to spend another night at the hotel, where everything was expensive but easy, but it was fully booked up for just that one night. And so we left the next morning without a real plan, catching a taxi to a dive shop in nearby Sanur on the eastern side of Bali in hopes that we could figure out diving options and where to stay. We wound up at Crystal Divers, and after a quick stop at a small hole-in-the-wall restaurant for cheap, delicious local food, we went wandering down to and along the beach. We passed resorts and private villas, little statues with tiny offerings, all with views of the far off ocean breaks against the reef. We spotted a little cafe with a sign about a weekly dance performance at an adjoining restaurant, so we wandered through a long walkway, past a gorgeous garden full of frangipanis and other flowers, a tall statue with a little pond, numerous smaller statues, and a pool, before finally arriving at a reception area for a hotel and restaurant. On a whim, we inquired about room prices, and we were happily surprised at how affordable it was. We immediately moved into the Laghawa Hotel, what would become one of our favorite little spots on the island. And it was a good thing, because we wound up staying in Sanur much longer than expected due to some challenges with our planned diving schedule! But I'll share more about our diving experience next time.<br />
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Over the next few days, we relaxed and waited, we took courses, and we had incredible dives. We also visited as many restaurants within a walkable distance as possible. A nearby place called Terracotta had okay food, but the absolute nicest waitress, who told us about a Balinese holiday happening that evening. We later spotted dozens of men and boys dressed in near identical, all-white shirts, long sarongs, and head wraps. We had tasty curry and satay and You and Me Cafe, and sampled their crispy duck another evening. Batujimbar was a fresh little cafe where we made frequent visits for salads and fresh fruit blends, though one Sunday they also held a local market where we sampled small bites of local specialties. And our absolute favorite spot was a tiny gelato stand called Gelato Secrets, with unique flavors like cinnamon dragon fruit, ginger lime, apple pie, chocolate with candied orange peel, and salted butter caramel. (There was also a location in Ubud, where we found roasted banana with cinnamon, and even a durian flavor!) <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Local men and boys dressed up for a holiday</td></tr>
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We also fully enjoyed the beach, relaxing on cozy chairs, sipping coffee, dipping into the calm water, and soaking in the sun, João often painting small watercolors as I read. João also bought a black pirate ship kite from a beachside vendor, an appropriate gift for someone I affectionately refer to as my pirate. We stayed late one evening drinking mojitos and taking in the colors of the reflected sunset, the clouds appearing as pink and purple tufts of cotton candy. We stayed a while that evening, having long conversations under a blanket of bright stars and occasional fireworks from a distant resort. We awoke early one morning to view the sunrise as well, sleepily cuddling on one of the beach chairs as the sky slowly brightened, brilliant colors of red and orange, with purple clouds and light reflecting off the glassy water. <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Morning commute in Sanur</td></tr>
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That evening, we also decided to check out a proper sunset, deciding when João's class ended a bit early to hop on a motorbike and drive to the opposite side of the island. Google said it would take about 28 minutes to reach Canggu, a beach on the western side of the island. Google lied. We immediately hit heavy traffic leaving Sanur, then got pulled over by a police officer demanding to see an international driver's license, which basically meant he wanted cash. He tried for $50 (João remembers him trying for $200 first!), saying the fine was $100, as we tried to negotiate. We got him down to 200,000 rupiah (about $15-20), and when João handed him the cash, he turned to me and asked for the same from me! We insisted we didn't have any more money, and he finally smiled and left. Typical Bali. It took us well over an hour of weaving through heavy traffic to make it over to Canggu. When we reached the Betelnut Cafe - a spot that had been recommended to us - we simply left the bike and walked the rest of the way rather than spend another second on it. Thankfully, we reached the beach at just the right time, catching an incredible sunset as we walked along the black sand beach, watching the probably hundreds of surfers attempt to catch the choppy ocean waves. Off in the distance, huge kites flew through the air, and the mostly cloudy sky opened up at just the right time for an explosion of color and a reflection of the bright red sun in the waves below, before it disappeared entirely. We had managed to catch both sunrise and sunset in a single day, on opposite sites of the island.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8ozMy_Iv_DmloQ41VWGYV3-CmqWIMHBfMFbzs8MSFJi2zNGnXzb5PWVhAYq1jPYL8uz9ui-zJRl5YVV5qsAGAIVNce8lw0waRyuT7i0en0vGr3NigyILrviwqKzTCO_sDqu7eoAX1_auQ/s1600/Indonesia-68.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8ozMy_Iv_DmloQ41VWGYV3-CmqWIMHBfMFbzs8MSFJi2zNGnXzb5PWVhAYq1jPYL8uz9ui-zJRl5YVV5qsAGAIVNce8lw0waRyuT7i0en0vGr3NigyILrviwqKzTCO_sDqu7eoAX1_auQ/s1600/Indonesia-68.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gas Station in Bali</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3_FT9IxX0ldEyfG8cVDCHb-__U2N7zUc_wj_LkrCdBBcv_bd2wF1xCgA1rdFlEmyuiRimoUECEpl8gxUItKYem-2VGNccrX1YwAYWnxliV4ZbmqxPbfpQr3gPy2zfPOmoKcTAgHLZ7myF/s1600/Indonesia-87.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3_FT9IxX0ldEyfG8cVDCHb-__U2N7zUc_wj_LkrCdBBcv_bd2wF1xCgA1rdFlEmyuiRimoUECEpl8gxUItKYem-2VGNccrX1YwAYWnxliV4ZbmqxPbfpQr3gPy2zfPOmoKcTAgHLZ7myF/s1600/Indonesia-87.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The evening commute</td></tr>
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As the sky grew darker, we walked back to Betelnut Cafe and secured a table in the ground floor room. We shared a delicious plate of spring rolls and an incredible bowl of curry, as well as a burrito (though the burrito wasn't nearly as good as the curry, which was outstanding). Our drive back to Sanur was faster and involved a lot less traffic, but with the dark and the sheer distance was still difficult, and it took nearly an hour again. We returned the bike immediately upon our arrival and picked up some ice cream to comfort our frayed nerves, before collapsing at the hotel. </div>
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After spending a couple of days entirely consumed by diving, we had a final day to relax in Sanur before heading up to Ubud to explore a bit more of Bali. We found a restaurant near the hotel called Three Monkeys, with open, airy, modern decor, with a second story patio and tall lanterns hanging from the ceiling over the floor space. We sat at a table on the balcony, ordered a bottle of the local sparkling wine, an appetizer of roasted red pepper bruschetta, and two entrees to share. We took a chance on the monkfish dish - it was amazing - and a plate of pumpkin ravioli with a brown butter sauce that was so rich it could have been dessert. But we still ordered dessert - a decadent chocolate cake for me and a fruit tart for João. The meal was absolutely incredible, and though it was the day after my one year travel anniversary, we felt this was a proper celebration for it! </div>
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We spent most of the next morning still wandering around Sanur - checking out a "local market" which turned out to be just a few tents and tables with various clothing items and accessories, and we walked along the beach path, checking out the colorful fishing boats resting up on the sand. We also passed a small artist stand with a man selling intricately decorated wooden eggs, deciding we might return to pick one up later as we were planning a return to Sanur for a bit more diving. For lunch, we tried out the nearby Porch Cafe with tasty sandwiches, coffee, and scones. Finally, we hired a driver at our hotel to take us to Ubud, not having much of a plan for when we arrived, but feeling that, as in Sanur, things would work themselves out…<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiV2qsrJRCB8ZtbJd74tVJNVrNSGU5hIfCOr_R15sc5_NEjhWNj_Jnb7zP90nRwrJF4O2tcqjUawnaSCnWyxXbk_-WCrMGWmFZgz1IwA6xOumo1muUVWZ8ZX7uxShotUHwGNL3UGvIU15A0/s1600/Indonesia-17.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiV2qsrJRCB8ZtbJd74tVJNVrNSGU5hIfCOr_R15sc5_NEjhWNj_Jnb7zP90nRwrJF4O2tcqjUawnaSCnWyxXbk_-WCrMGWmFZgz1IwA6xOumo1muUVWZ8ZX7uxShotUHwGNL3UGvIU15A0/s1600/Indonesia-17.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tiny offerings left out multiple times each day</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Statues are often decorated with sarongs or fresh flowers</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Typical fishing boats in Sanur</td></tr>
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Outlander Abroadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18318811583672765616noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8185241522378784026.post-3319283326378943692015-03-20T12:22:00.000-04:002015-03-20T12:22:53.641-04:00Holiday on the Great Wall<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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We awoke even earlier my second day in Beijing, planning to venture out to see the Great Wall, and not knowing how difficult it would be to reach, or how crowded it would be once we were there. It was a national holiday, and though this was one typically spent home with family, it was possible that many would take advantage of the day off to see some tourist sites. We set off around 8:30, catching a local bus to a larger long-distance terminal, and followed strict orders from Jeff's wife Evelyn as to which bus we should take for the ride out to the wall. Thankfully we listened, rather than following the "friendly advice" offered by the bus terminal staff, who tried very hard to get us to take a different, "faster" bus. After about an hour we hopped off at the closest stop to the Wall, cramming into a taxi van with two Germans and three Chinese. We quickly learned that the Germans had taken the "advice" of the terminal staff and had been taken much further than they needed to go, and they had needed to pay a car to get them back to our stop! Not long after, we arrived at the Mutianyu section of the Great Wall. </div>
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The weather couldn't have been more perfect, with absolutely clear, smog-free skies - nearly unthinkable in Beijing - and we could see the line of the wall atop the mountain at a distance. Jeff joked that it was proof the government controls the weather, having such a gorgeous day on a national holiday! We bought tickets for what we thought was a gondola-style ride to the top and back, though what we wound up taking was more of a ski lift-style lift up. We sort of ended up at the far right portion of the wall, so we turned left, working our way towards the gondolas, a bit set of stairs, and eventually the non-tourist section that hadn't been refurbished. </div>
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The crowds on the Monday holiday weren't too bad, and the wall itself was an absolutely incredible sight - the massive stone structure stretching and snaking along the mountaintop. We walked a bit down, mostly up, following the crest of the mountain from stone to gate, taking refuge from the sun inside each one, climbing up on the roofs to take in the view where we could. And the view was amazing - from high above overlooking the little town, and as we climbed higher we saw beautifully textured brown mountains off to the other side. From even higher we could start to see water and the shape of an enormous city, which we assumed to be Beijing. We couldn't believe our luck with the weather, but the skies were indeed a deep blue, and completely lacking the trademark smog that had been so heavy just a day prior.</div>
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After we had passed the actual gondola and continued along, we eventually came to a long, steep incline. after what felt like an endless amount of stairs, we reached a platform that most tourists would consider the end, which did have a magnificent view, a couple of Chinese flags, and a handful of hawkers selling trinkets. After a brief pause, we pressed on, continuing our climb, the number of other tourists thinning out considerably at this point. We reached another gate area, then climbed up a ladder to the roof to continue onto the next section of wall. We reached the final gate on the restored path just as a number of people with small packs were emerging from the other side, having camped out somewhere on the wall the night before. I made a mental note that if I ever had the chance to return to China, I would absolutely return to this section of the wall and do exactly that!</div>
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We then began our walk on the unrestored section, a sharp contrast to what we had just covered, in that trees and plants were sprouting out of the center of the structure, and the stone pavers were often broken or steep and slippery. After passing through a flat, section with thick greenery, we began a steep ascent, more of a half-climbing scramble than simply a walk, as we grasped the sides of the wall and various trees to support ourselves as we moved upward. </div>
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We finally reached a small, half-crumbled gate at the highest point, and we scrambled up to the top. We stood there taking in the breeze and the panorama, still amazed at this mammoth structure under our feet, snaking off in either direction. The fact that hundreds of years ago, people had actually moved the stone up to the top of these mountains, for hundreds of miles, to build this incredible work of architecture that still stands strong today, was absolutely mind-blowing. </div>
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After soaking in our surroundings and taking a few photos, we began our descent, with that initial section feeling even more treacherous on the way down. We switched over to a more rough side of the wall, picking our way down carefully. Once we reached the flat, it was much easier, until the knee-pounding descent down that long, steep section of stairs. </div>
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Having had only a Snickers bar since breakfast, I was hungry and exhausted and feeling quite sunburnt by the time we reached the gondolas, and I was incredibly thankful to finally be done with walking and catch a ride down. Of course, as soon as we tried to board, they told us we had purchased a ticket to the other lift, and that they were different companies, and we would either have to buy a new ticket or walk to the other one. Note that they had been sold from the same window at the base of the mountain, and they cost the same, so we had no way of knowing they were exclusive - even to Jeff who speaks fluent Mandarin! They wouldn't trade the ticket or sell us "half of a ride" (since we were only going down, not up and down), and they wouldn't budge. So I dragged my exhausted butt and achey knees back up to the top of the wall, up to the next gate and through and down, until we finally arrived at our original point of entry. This one actually had a little downhill "chute" you could ride down on a sort of wheeled sled, identical to something I had seen in Queenstown, New Zealand, years ago. So, we hopped on board individual sleds for the long, winding sled down - generally fun, though not the most comfortable contraptions! </div>
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At the bottom, I was never happier to spot a Subway and Baskin Robbins, and I ran inside for a quick sandwich and scoop of ice cream, cheering me back up instantly. Finally full, Jeff and I left the complex, joined another pair looking for a taxi to get back to the bus stop, and caught a ride. When the bus did arrive, it was overly full, with a handful of people already standing in the aisles. Despite the ride being over an hour long, we crammed on board, standing in the aisles until I finally sat down on the step down to the back door for the ride back to the city.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgddwbPLuXUpCz28L1AoPs8w-BOb84ZQWDc9hOYNobH4MyiOqYr3of073juREerX4fC1tNjsjNJFEkARbtjaxrAoLC5lKhQLEDFve2qXbGpqgI7CdwDNmfr0JwqvGv84RSTmwjXSltXwTas/s1600/China-682.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgddwbPLuXUpCz28L1AoPs8w-BOb84ZQWDc9hOYNobH4MyiOqYr3of073juREerX4fC1tNjsjNJFEkARbtjaxrAoLC5lKhQLEDFve2qXbGpqgI7CdwDNmfr0JwqvGv84RSTmwjXSltXwTas/s1600/China-682.jpg" height="400" width="300" /></a></div>
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When we finally arrived back in Beijing, we switched to a local bus, and though we had to wait ages for it to arrive, we were treated to an incredible sunset lighting up the sky in bright reds and oranges. We finally arrived homes and took turns getting cleaned up and relaxing a bit, then we set out with Evelyn to find Peking Duck. First we caught a bus over to a typical Chinese spot on the second floor of a large building. They looked like they would be closing soon, and we quickly discovered they were out of duck! Evelyn got on the phone to a few places, successfully ordering a duck at another restaurant. </div>
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After we left, we had a long wait for a bus, a relatively short bus ride, and a long walk to reach the restaurant, but I was delighted to see an outdoor patio with dozens of little strands of lights and red paper lanterns when we finally arrived. Evelyn explained that this restaurant - called Jing Zun - was a bit nicer as it caters more to westerners. Thankfully the food was still authentic and delicious!! We found a spot on the patio and ordered drinks and a couple of dishes to share - spicy bok choy with peanuts and a plate of sweet tofu with the consistency of bread pudding - while we waited for the duck to arrive. And finally, there it was. Evelyn doled out the little light, crepe-like discs, into which we placed pieces of rich duck and crispy skin dipped into a thick, sweet sauce, along with bits of cucumber and onion, then rolled them up into little two-bite sized packets, and devoured them. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEM1tt7pBDb7liEkPMzP9o-Ic51PDpbuG5k8KR7eC39QImGfjtzGsgz8WT7bgZrzfJ6BMtSO-j6PeryJnalrPNJpzLGPHDaSNmEgR-EEr3r2uRmwyGYOWnZnT7h-viqiOVC7Pqp2ToAWgt/s1600/China-672.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEM1tt7pBDb7liEkPMzP9o-Ic51PDpbuG5k8KR7eC39QImGfjtzGsgz8WT7bgZrzfJ6BMtSO-j6PeryJnalrPNJpzLGPHDaSNmEgR-EEr3r2uRmwyGYOWnZnT7h-viqiOVC7Pqp2ToAWgt/s1600/China-672.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a></div>
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I felt so lucky to have connected with these long-lost friends across the globe who could show me a side of China I never would have discovered on my own. And as a result, the past few days in China had definitely been some of the best, and it was a sort of a shame to leave so soon. But between the day spent wandering along the Great Wall and the evening spent devouring Peking Duck, it was a fantastic and appropriate ending to my time in Beijing, as well as China as a whole. And I had a pretty incredible stretch to look forward to: three weeks in paradise with my Portuguese pirate - a vacation within my travels.</div>
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Outlander Abroadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18318811583672765616noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8185241522378784026.post-73623861205404607602015-03-16T01:26:00.000-04:002015-03-16T01:26:23.930-04:00Explore the Elements<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Today's post is a bit of a departure for me - my friend <a href="http://jimmyeatsworld.com/2015/03/09/explore-the-elements-photo-contest/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Jimmy</a> nominated me to participate in the <a href="http://www.thomascook.com/blog/holidays/explore-the-elements-terms-conditions/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Explore the Elements</a> contest hosted by Thomas Cook UK, and it was hard to resist the chance at some incredible prizes... Plus, it was fun to look back through my photos from the past year or so and find some images and stories that represented each of the elements. <br />
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EARTH</h2>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsI7DwCLViydhyBYyJTMBOHyowWgButS_Hs72tDeds_W0Y61espm3TWuZJLvSmngoYjwZIowniRweG95O4M4g745AHOUFmIST1YxOkI8R3EhrPwldYKTdU4HjcMbO8vT0IrUXB9Xhiv8XE/s1600/ExploreElements-4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsI7DwCLViydhyBYyJTMBOHyowWgButS_Hs72tDeds_W0Y61espm3TWuZJLvSmngoYjwZIowniRweG95O4M4g745AHOUFmIST1YxOkI8R3EhrPwldYKTdU4HjcMbO8vT0IrUXB9Xhiv8XE/s1600/ExploreElements-4.jpg" height="426" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Beng Mealea, Siem Reap, Cambodia</td></tr>
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Far from the typical tourist trail around Angkor Wat sits Beng Mealea, a temple that has become so intertwined with the earthen elements around it, that it would be impossible to separate the two. Of all the stunning ruins I viewed during my time in Cambodia, Beng Mealea was the one that felt the most wild and reclaimed by the earth. It reminded me of the stubbornness of the natural world, and how no matter how magnificent the structures that we built are, the earth will always be there, working its way back in. It was a powerful reminder that it's impossible to separate ourselves from the earth... and why would we want to? The image above in particular reflected the beauty in the earth's embrace of the forgotten stones.<br />
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<a href="http://theplanetd.com/explore-elements-photo-contest/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Dave Bouskill</a> is judging the Earth category.<br />
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WATER</h2>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8YfxvmFH71CeQorwFMkeraDGmXCwDra9sPjyyWqSI_Ks3YcZGMGx-Ls0Jzk6BFYqpFJP_0aKpuaYyZwGT3VhY9UQ8wWy9SRrQc-Lyfbq_u6xSQ19K60WLg-s9NOtA5znIHfd-eWBknqjG/s1600/ExploreElements_new-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8YfxvmFH71CeQorwFMkeraDGmXCwDra9sPjyyWqSI_Ks3YcZGMGx-Ls0Jzk6BFYqpFJP_0aKpuaYyZwGT3VhY9UQ8wWy9SRrQc-Lyfbq_u6xSQ19K60WLg-s9NOtA5znIHfd-eWBknqjG/s1600/ExploreElements_new-1.jpg" height="640" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Inle Lake, Myanmar / Burma</td></tr>
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The people of Inle Lake in Myanmar live their entire lives on and around water. Building homes on tall stilts above the lake, making their way through the reedy pathways and landmasses by boat, the people fish and farm on the water. As we cruised slowly past the floating gardens at sunset, we happened to pass a young boy, dressed only in the typical longyi, slowly steering his longboat using a customary standing one-leg paddling technique. The resulting image was a striking depiction of a people who depend so much on the water surrounding them.<br />
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<a href="http://blog.kenkaminesky.com/2015/01/19/explore-the-elements-photo-contest/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Ken Kaminesky</a> is judging the Water category.<br />
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FIRE</h2>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYFvcwnjtH-XhvvqV-Nfx_trdvzeJ_aXvSsbrwcwa5buBEQ8erCjuRF4MFKmF6rNSioKrnpCBmiUk96MdhTIW4dOOeVT27rvZK8TAKaHrE-ceWiSXD9sLioinvL6s0DFpauBZcG6vtSk1H/s1600/ExploreElements-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYFvcwnjtH-XhvvqV-Nfx_trdvzeJ_aXvSsbrwcwa5buBEQ8erCjuRF4MFKmF6rNSioKrnpCBmiUk96MdhTIW4dOOeVT27rvZK8TAKaHrE-ceWiSXD9sLioinvL6s0DFpauBZcG6vtSk1H/s1600/ExploreElements-2.jpg" height="426" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Torres del Paine National Park, Patagonia, Chile</td></tr>
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Fire is a destructive force. But it is also a catalyst for change and new growth. While trekking the W trail over four days in late 2014, it was impossible to miss the fire damage caused by a careless camper nearly three years prior. Hundreds of trees were left scorched, leaving blackened skeletons of their former beauty along the trail. However, if you looked closely, you could see new growth all around the trees - grasses, flowers, bushes, and new tree sprouts. As devastating as fire can be, it can also open a path for new life to rush forward. This image represents the change, the growth, that can come from something that on the surface seems such a powerful force for destruction.<br />
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<a href="http://www.blamethemonkey.com/explore-the-elements-photography-competition" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Elia Locardi </a>is judging the Fire category.<br />
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AIR</h2>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEialLetja1RbE5LY1043koPNpdYlfeaWfEwjzShS4VbskC2MwaImEyXooDZzNZnxAKNafApPeuv2qujNOD085cDQMKO5_tCxJr5le8QHdzdCod81uilDQImwyywV5TOSI0aNAXUGG6f2HHI/s1600/ExploreElements-3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEialLetja1RbE5LY1043koPNpdYlfeaWfEwjzShS4VbskC2MwaImEyXooDZzNZnxAKNafApPeuv2qujNOD085cDQMKO5_tCxJr5le8QHdzdCod81uilDQImwyywV5TOSI0aNAXUGG6f2HHI/s1600/ExploreElements-3.jpg" height="426" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Swayambhunath / Monkey Temple, Kathmandu, Nepal</td></tr>
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High above the sprawling city of Kathmandu sits the Swayambhunath Temple. Far from the dust of the streets below, the stupa provides a sense of openness, peace, freedom, and adventure, which would lead me to attempt a week-long trek through the incredible Annapurna Range stretching out before me. The colorful prayer flags, fluttering in the breeze, became the symbol of that spirit that would follow me from the stupa all the way up the mountain path to my own personal summit - Annapurna Base Camp. This image represents that feeling of freedom and adventure and peace which took hold inside of me when I saw those flags moving in the wind, like air filling my lungs.<br />
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<a href="http://nicolesyblog.com/2015/01/19/explore-the-elements-photo-contest/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Nicole Young</a> is judging the Air category.<br />
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My Nominations:</h2>
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Even though the entries are due today, I'll still nominate a few folks - sorry, guys!<br />
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<li>Ashley from <a href="http://thewanderingmermaid.blogspot.com/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">The Wandering Mermaid</a></li>
<li>Sam from <a href="http://historyhiker.com/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">History Hiker</a></li>
<li>Terence from <a href="http://terence-indelibleadventures.blogspot.ca/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Indelible Adventures</a></li>
<li>Hailey from <a href="http://www.savvygirltravel.com/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Savvy Girl Travel</a></li>
<li>Lisa from <a href="http://www.llworldtour.com/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">LL World Tour</a></li>
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How You Can Enter:</h2>
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<ol style="text-align: left;">
<li>Publish an <i>Explore the Elements</i> post on your blog with an image for each element or as many as you want to capture. </li>
<li>Nominate 5 of your fellow bloggers to take part.</li>
<li>Notify Thomas Cook that you've entered by <a href="https://twitter.com/home?status=Here%E2%80%99s%20my%20%23ExploreTheElements%20competition%20entry%20@ThomasCookUK%20%E2%80%93%20(INSERT%20BLOG%20POST%20URL%20HERE)" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">tweeting</a> <a href="https://twitter.com/home?status=Here%E2%80%99s%20my%20%23ExploreTheElements%20competition%20entry%20@ThomasCookUK%20%E2%80%93%20(INSERT%20BLOG%20POST%20URL%20HERE)" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">@ThomasCookUK</a> or <a href="mailto:exploretheelements@thomascookonline.com" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">emailing</a> them with a link to your post before the competition closes on March 16.</li>
<li>Thomas Cook and the competition judges will share and retweet some of their favorite Explore the Elements posts throughout the contest's 8 week duration so be sure to follow their Facebook and Twitter accounts closely!</li>
<li>Every Explore the Elements blog entry will be judged by the 4 judges with each judge selecting an element category winner to receive either a <b>Fujifilm camera</b>, an <b>Apple MacBook Air</b>, or an <b>Apple iPhone 6</b> with <b>Bose noise-canceling headphones </b>depending on their choice. The judges will then work together to select the overall winner of the 5,000 travel fund. For further information about the judging and the prizes see the Terms & Conditions by clicking the link below.</li>
<li><a href="http://www.thomascook.com/blog/holidays/explore-the-elements-terms-conditions/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Terms and Conditions</a></li>
</ol>
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See more at <a href="http://www.thomascook.com/blog/holiday-competitions-deals/explore-the-elements/">http://www.thomascook.com/blog/holiday-competitions-deals/explore-the-elements/</a> </div>
Outlander Abroadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18318811583672765616noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8185241522378784026.post-56518246065311097852015-03-10T10:24:00.000-04:002015-03-10T10:56:52.309-04:00A Walking Day Tour of Beijing<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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Fresh off the bullet train from Shanghai, I arrived into Beijing late on a Saturday evening. It took nearly an hour for me to make my way to my friend Jeff's neighborhood, despite the excellent directions he gave me. Jeff and his wife Evelyn met me at a small cafe, having just returned from a one-day ultimate frisbee tournament outside the city, and led me back to their apartment. It was the first time I had seen Jeff since a mutual friend's wedding just after we had graduated college - he had spent the years since teaching English in Korea and China, getting married, becoming fluent in Mandarin, and now working as a freelance translator. </div>
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We got up early the next morning - Jeff was in between freelance assignments, so he offered to be my tour guide for the two full days that I had in the city. He was an absolute godsend, expertly navigating the city's mass transit systems and leading me through narrow neighborhood alleys to sites and restaurants and breweries. I was perfectly happy to follow his lead, relax, and enjoy my time.</div>
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We picked up a couple of compact, portable breakfasts from a shop around the corner from their apartment - a sort of pancake with lettuce and meat that was filling, delicious, and cheap. Our first stop was Tiananmen Square, just outside the Forbidden City, and most well-known for the massacre of pro-democracy demonstrators in 1989. Since it was a public holiday weekend, Mao's mausoleum was closed, which makes two communist leaders whose preserved bodies I have been near to but haven't seen! The day was incredibly hazy, and we simply wandered the large square a bit, slowly making our way towards the Forbidden City and the massive portrait of Mao out front.</div>
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We crossed the street, passing under the road and up to the other side, entering the gates and purchasing our tickets as we watched a pair of girls wearing headbands with "traditional" ornamentation take selfies while holding Chinese flags. Ah, China. Inside the next gate, there was a massive courtyard with a central building, a pattern that would continue as we made our way through the city. There was a set of three small bridges, the central one more ornately decorated, leading over a small moat, which we crossed to enter the central pavilion.</div>
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The other sections blend together in my mind, but we saw huge lion sculptures in bronze - a male and a female, the male with his paw on a ball representing the earth, the female with her paw on a cub. There were other bronze statues as well - a crane and a turtle with a sort of dragon head. There were tiered pavilions with dragon head "gargoyles", and there were massive slabs of stone with intricate carvings of dragons, a symbol of the emperor. The interiors of most of the buildings were open enough to look in on the decor from the open doors, each venture to do so resulting in much pushing and shoving and jockeying for position… in other words, the Chinese method of queueing. The buildings themselves were covered in subtle ornamentation, bronze dragons swirling in the window frames.</div>
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We briefly stepped into a side area - one of many - this one displaying a set of bronze bowls and other objects. We then cut into a garden featuring a massive tangle of stone with a Chinese roof on top, as well as other stone features, statues, and neatly trimmed bonsai-style trees.</div>
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From the garden, we wound our way out of the expansive city, heading immediately across the street to Jinshan Park and heading straight up the stairs to the very top, to a small temple with an excellent view of the Forbidden City spread out in front of us, through the hazy smog. </div>
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I followed Jeff as we descended down one side, into a larger park, where we almost immediately came up on a large group of men singing a cappella, conductor and all. We stood transfixed for a few moments, taking in the amazing music until they wrapped up the song, then continued a bit further, as we could hear other groups in the distance. We also came across a small group putting on a sort of ballroom style dance practice / performance, but as soon as I got close, the lead guy with the microphone started trying to recruit me to join, and I quickly retreated. We walked back towards an exit, walking out just as a handful of sleek black cars with diplomat plates pulled up, secret service-looking personnel in suits and earpieces swarming, and a couple of well-dressed women got out, began shaking hands and chatting, and walking towards the park, entourage in tow. I have no idea which dignitaries they were, but it was a fascinating sight!</div>
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It was already well into the afternoon, but Jeff had a specific lunch spot in mind, so we got to walking, first down a quiet alleyway between typical old Chinese homes - these alleyways are called hutongs - then past a small lake through a small park that made me think of a particular section of New York's Central Park. This one was full of little pedal boats, many in the shape of rubber duckies, and despite signs saying, "No Fishing", "No Swimming", "No Climbing", there were plenty of men fishing, a group was swimming (and splashing loudly), and dozens of people were perched up on the fences watching it all. </div>
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We turned and crossed over a small canal, just opposite a romantic little bridge, turning down into another hutong, until we arrived at the spot Jeff had in mind, a little Muslim spot that promised a similar set of flavors to what I had tasted in Xi'an's Mulsim Quarter. Just as similarly, I grabbed a little glass bottle of drinkable yogurt from a store next door to wash down the spicy, savory flavors of the chicken dish we shared. Our next stop was just around the corner - the Great Leap Brewing Company. It had a cozy little courtyard and was filled with locals and foreigners alike, and I sampled a flight of four of the unique beers they had on tap, while Jeff enjoyed a couple of pints. For me, the Banana Wheat, the Liu the Brave Stout, the East City Porter, and the Honey Ma Gold. The last one is made with Sichuan peppercorn, leaving a tiny hint of numbness on my tongue! Jeff had the stout and the Buddha Blonde. I was very happy with my selection, and the rest and the tasty beverages revitalized me. </div>
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From there, we continued through the alleyways of the hutong, turning onto Nanluogu Xiang, a mostly walking street packed with people and unique shops - bars, restaurants, souvenir shops, boutiques, and all sorts of inventive snacks, from decorative hard candy to a light doughy pastry I sampled. Vendors were also dotted along the streets selling everything from Lego-like figures to swirls of cotton candy. We walked all the way to the end of the street, then turned back to the other end, where we caught the metro back to the apartment. </div>
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Exhausted, I didn't think I was hungry enough to venture out for a real meal, but I joined Jeff and Evelyn at an outdoor table at a neighborhood restaurant, where we had the most delicious Kung Pao chicken I have ever tasted. The next morning, Jeff and I would venture out to see one of the sites I had built my entire RTW journey around…. the Great Wall.</div>
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Outlander Abroadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18318811583672765616noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8185241522378784026.post-91252488000962731852015-03-05T11:51:00.001-05:002015-03-05T11:51:44.602-05:00Man & Place Interview<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Today head on over to my friend Michael's cultural geography site, <a href="http://www.manandplace.com/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Man & Place</a>, where he has shared a lengthy interview with me on my RTW journey. He did a great job asking a number of tough questions, and the result is a response to many of the whys, hows, curiosities, and concerns that people are often asking (or thinking!) when they hear about my trip. If you're curious to know the answers, check out the full post!<br />
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<a href="http://www.manandplace.com/post/112783263577/on-a-trip-around-the-world" rel="nofollow" target="_blank"><span style="font-size: large;">On a Trip Around the World</span></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Full URL: <a href="http://www.manandplace.com/post/112783263577/on-a-trip-around-the-world">http://www.manandplace.com/post/112783263577/on-a-trip-around-the-world</a> </span></div>
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Outlander Abroadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18318811583672765616noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8185241522378784026.post-57690653104934958502015-03-02T12:35:00.001-05:002015-03-02T15:13:47.140-05:00A Short Stay in Shanghai<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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After a rough couple of days trying to get out of Zhangye, China, I couldn't be more relieved to arrive in Shanghai, where I would be staying with an old friend from back home, Amy. My arrival started on a positive note that was so small and simple, but such a sharp contrast to my recent experience that I took notice. As my taxi driver wound through the streets of the French Concession in Shanghai, he took another look at the address I had provided, and realizing he had gone down the wrong street, flipped off the meter as he backtracked and found the correct road. That simple moment of honesty gave me such reassurance that my stay in Shanghai would be a good one, and indeed it was. I arrived late that evening, and Amy whisked me up to her apartment, happily chatting and catching up until we both needed to collapse.</div>
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I awoke to the sound of raindrops, so I took my time getting up and moving, eating delicious fresh toast with butter and honey as I enjoyed the quiet space of the apartment. It's incredible how a simple space on a couch in a friend's home feels so much more comfortable and familiar than a hostel bunk. Once the rain had let up a bit, I set out to explore, wandering up and down the wide, shaded tree-lined streets of the French Concession. The streets reminded me of Mendoza, one of my earliest stops on this journey back in Argentina. It's incredible how some small feature like that can transport you to a memory half a world away. I decided to settle in at a lovely little cafe called Voce, enjoying a Caesar salad and a cappuccino - enjoying the comfort of the familiar - until it was time to meet Amy back at the apartment after she got home for work.</div>
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We decided to check out El Luchador for dinner, an easy walk away, and a restaurant that had been personally recommended by a Canadian friend I had met all the way back in Chile, as a close friend of his was the manager. While the friend of my friend wasn't actually at the restaurant that evening, we had a truly enjoyable, low-key evening of tasty margaritas and delicious southwestern food - Amy had a couple of tacos, and I had a beef burrito complete with cheese and sour cream - a decadent splurge after all those dumplings and bowls of soup! We left completely stuffed, taking some time to walk off our food comas through the neighborhood. Amy led me down a popular bar street full of foreigners, then turned onto a road full of small local grocers without an expat in sight. It was refreshing to be back in a city where both sides were possible.</div>
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The next day I was absolutely determined to make it to a gym, so I planned to visit CrossFit MeWellness, a recommendation from the folks in Hong Kong. Unfortunately, it looked to be a lot further than I had initially thought, so I figured I would just go to CrossFit Iron Dragon (rumored to have terrible programing but great t-shirts) which looked a bit closer and had a slightly later class start time. Somehow though, after a long walk, a metro ride, and another long walk, I got a bit lost and wound up stumbling upon MeWellness after all! The space was great - a brand new Reebok-sponsored box - and the coach, Erwin, was wonderful. I stuck around after class chatting with a few of the members, and they invited me to join them for lunch. We wound up at a Belgian brewpub, sharing mediocre appetizers and sampling delicious Belgian beers, sitting out on the patio to enjoy the perfect weather. I rode back to Amy's neighborhood on the back of Erwin's motorbike, taking in the sights of the beautiful modern modern metropolis as we rode. </div>
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That evening, Amy and I headed out to meet some members of the local ultimate frisbee scene - Amy and I had actually played on a competitive coed team in Atlanta many years ago, and while I didn't play much anymore, she was coaching kids at the international school where she taught, and she was a leader on the field for the local competitive team. We wound up at a spot called Spicy Joint, sharing heaps of Chinese food - family-style, of course - greens covered in a peanut buttery sauce, chicken, fat noodles, spicy bowls of fungi, cauliflower, and many more, finishing with a plate of little balls of dough with a sweet dipping sauce that tasted like an ode to Krispy Kreme. Our table was one of the few with any expats, and luckily we had a few who spoke the language well enough to keep a wide variety of plates coming. The group was highly entertaining, and they invited me to join them for a tournament more than a month away in Hong Kong. I laughed it off, saying I didn't have cleats and had no idea where I would be at that point, but I kept it in the back of my mind.</div>
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Another interesting development to come out of that dinner was my realization that a friend from my college ultimate frisbee team was back in Beijing. I had spoken to him months ago, but he had planned on being in the US when I was traveling in China, so I assumed I would miss him. Since I had wound up coming to China later than I had initially planned, he was also back in town. Sure enough, I reached out to him, and I was invited to stay with him and his wife for my upcoming visit. </div>
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The next morning, I grabbed some takeaway coffee and a sandwich from Voce and set out to visit the Yuyuan Gardens. Upon arriving at the metro stop, I first encountered a massive market - tall, beautiful modern Chinese buildings filled with a mix of souvenir shops, food, and regular shopping. Being a Friday it was pretty packed, mostly Chinese visitors but also a few foreign tour groups. One little shop caught my eye, and I spotted some tiny porcelain lucky cats that looked like they would make good Christmas ornaments. Unfortunately the Chinese symbols on them all stood for "money" and "good luck", so they didn't seem like great picks for my family. I started chatting with the lady running the shop about the Chinese zodiac, and with her help, I realized that each member of my family was born on under a different sign. Thrilled, I bought corresponding figures for each of us - snake, monkey, tiger, pig (that's me), and a dragon for my boyfriend. </div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjp2_kK_py9mcfzJePG1SHummcyL7b4cpnixLm_8pdyukJdH8SZqNg2wYtCuc3PxHwIi3zwfBiYRrfd96keeIDRsJe4azRmeAFTMDE5kLNcP2llXHMVG5MIBGbT2GRE3zPhkwGM4iS8CPmT/s1600/IMG_3532.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjp2_kK_py9mcfzJePG1SHummcyL7b4cpnixLm_8pdyukJdH8SZqNg2wYtCuc3PxHwIi3zwfBiYRrfd96keeIDRsJe4azRmeAFTMDE5kLNcP2llXHMVG5MIBGbT2GRE3zPhkwGM4iS8CPmT/s1600/IMG_3532.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Chinese zodiac ornaments I found at the market :)</td></tr>
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From the shop, I crossed a zigzagging bridge over a koi fish pond to the entrance of the Yu Gardens. I found a peaceful spot to sit down almost immediately to enjoy the sandwich I had brought along, sitting on a dark wood bench under Chinese lanterns, overlooking a pond with koi fish and turtles, surrounded by rocks and greenery. The garden did turn out to be beautiful and, for the most part, very peaceful. It was a bit of a maze inside, moving from walled section to section, through small walkways in interesting shapes, through and around small wooden buildings and pavilions, bridges over little ponds, rocky features and stonework, mosaic details in the pavement, carvings set into the walls, and many, many dragons. Each room and space blended together a bit, and despite the beauty of the place, I did become a bit anxious to escape the maze and the growing crowds of people after a while. </div>
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I finally did emerge, right back where I had started, and after wandering through the shops a bit - seeing some of the handicrafts in particular - I began to make my way back to the metro, passing on a riverside view of the iconic skyline ("the Bund"), as Amy and I had planned on visiting it that night, though I did sneak up into a nearby hotel and get a decent view from their lounge floor. Tired from wandering, I made my way back to Amy's neighborhood. Arriving about an hour before she had returned from work, I treated myself to a much-needed pedicure just around the corner from her apartment, relaxing and reading an interesting expat magazine as I waited for my newly painted toes to dry. </div>
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Unfortunately, the restaurant we had planned to visit that evening was fully booked, so instead of venturing out to the Bund, we met one of Amy's work friends at Pizza Express, a short walk from the apartment. Later, we met another coworker friend at ultra-hip, modern Liquid Laundry. While it was known for being an amazing brewery, I opted for a delicious coffee-infused bourbon cocktail instead, which was outstanding. We hung out there for a bit, chatting and enjoying the atmosphere, before meeting up with more coworkers at a place called Senator, a small, smoky bar with a speakeasy feel. It had great decor and tasty appetizers, but the cocktail I selected was a bit disappointing - a bacon maple bourbon drink that tasted super sweet and watered down and not at all bacony. But it was a fun crowd, and we stayed a while, laughing and chatting, until we were all ready to call it a night.</div>
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The following morning was my last in Shanghai - a disappointingly short stay in what had turned out to be such a fun, vibrant city. Amy and I made our way to a spot called Vita for a lovely outdoor brunch, sipping coffee as we watched adorable local children play in the enclosed yard of the restaurant. The food was delicious, though portion sizes were enormous - leaving me plenty of leftovers for my train ride later that day. </div>
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Since I had still failed to see the Bund, we shared a taxi out to see the amazing view of the skyline and the waterway. We didn't stay too long before wandering back to the nearest metro station and finding our way back to the apartment, where I packed up the remainder of my stuff, thanked Amy for being an incredible hostess, and bid her farewell. </div>
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I easily caught a taxi to the train station, but I was doubtful I would make it in time for the 4pm train as we battled heaps of traffic on the way. The train station itself was an absolute monstrosity, and I was completely lost. Three ticket counters later, I stood in line and started to pay for the ticket on the train I wanted, but my line didn't accept credit cards, so I was redirected to a different queue. Everyone in my line ignored me when I begged to skip ahead, so either they didn't understand me or they didn't want me to know that they had. By the time I had made it to the front, only first class seats were left on the train, and the card reader didn't work for me to pay. After waiting in line number three, I was told that they only accepted Chinese credit cards and that I would need to go to the ATM. Feeling at this point like I wanted to punch someone, I marched over to an ATM, got some cash, then flat out skipped ahead of the line to pay and inserting myself at the front this time. I was stuck taking a train that only left 5 minutes after the one I had wanted, but it was a slower train, arriving into Beijing about an hour later than the 4pm train would have. </div>
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As it turns out, the friends I was meeting in Beijing didn't arrive back into town until much later than expected, so my long delay with the train just meant I spent less time waiting on the other end. And though the train was fully booked, it was only packed for the first couple of stops. For the remainder of the five-and-a-half hour ride, I had plenty of space to stretch out and marvel at the speed of the ultra-modern train. Next up, my final stop in China… Beijing.</div>
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Outlander Abroadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18318811583672765616noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8185241522378784026.post-62916187299181824132015-02-24T13:16:00.000-05:002015-02-24T13:16:32.057-05:00Misadventures in Transportation - Zhangye Edition<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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I awoke excited to be leaving Zhangye to make my way to Shanghai that afternoon. I needed to escape the cold city where I couldn't communicate with anyone, and I was thrilled to meet up with a friend from the States in Shanghai - a familiar face that I had known for years, a person I could actually have a proper conversation with. I packed my bag and went downstairs for breakfast, except that there was no one working in the breakfast area. When I asked the staff, they just responded with, "no". I went into the restaurant area anyway, which was strewn with dirty plates and ashtrays (despite the no smoking signs), and walked up to the small bar that served as the kitchen. It was similarly filthy, full of containers of food sitting out, a couple of hot plates and dirty pans, one with a pile of oily mushrooms still sitting in it. I cleaned out a pan as best I could and used it to make toast, finding a couple of hard boiled eggs that I ate with it. No one at the hostel seemed to notice or care.</div>
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I checked out around noon, stowing my bag and catching a bus into town to visit the Temple of the Giant Buddha in a plan to kill some time until my flight that afternoon. I had to wander a bit and ask for directions, but I eventually found the actual entrance, down a narrow, tree-lined street. I entered the temple complex and walked straight up to the primary temple where the Buddha was housed, which truly was impressive - the clay figure nearly as long (I guessed) as the one I had seen in Bangkok. Sadly, the room was very dark, so it was hard to take in all the details, especially of the figures directly behind and on either side of the Buddha. The walls also had interesting paintings of Chinese figures, and the backside of the Buddha held other smaller images. <br />
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While there were other buildings in the complex, I breezed through them relatively quickly, one holding art, the other calligraphy. I meandered slowly through the complex, filled with trees and small benches, settling onto one space for a bit to write until a man's loud spitting and talking eventually drove me away. I left, making my way back out to the road to a cafe I had spotted earlier, knowing I had plenty of time before my flight. I sat down in Cheng Bang Coffee, delighted that it was empty (no smoke!), that they had cappuccinos, and that they had a menu with photos on it! I ordered some simple fried rice and a cappuccino, pulling out my laptop to write and even taking some time to FaceTime on their wifi. I paid the bill and exchanged messages with my friend in Shanghai about logistics, then I caught the bus back to the hostel, still a pretty good way outside of the center of town.<br />
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It was then that it dawned on me. I glanced at my flight info and had the horrifying realization that the flight left at 17:55. Not 7:55. And it was already 5:20. After the slowest 10 minute bus ride in history, I dashed into the hostel to grab my bag, then wasted precious seconds trying to flag down a taxi until the hostel manager recruited a driver for me (for twice the normal rate). I got in and we went, but traffic at 5:30 made the drive excruciatingly slow. As we got closer, I offered up silent prayers for delays, slowly feeling hope slip away as we neared the airport. It wasn't until we arrived though, at 6:10 and exactly 15 minutes after departure time, that I started to break down. The doors of the tiny airport were locked. The one flight of the day was gone. I was stuck in the town I had wanted to leave the day before for an entire other day, and I only had myself to blame. </div>
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To make things worse, my driver found the whole thing absolutely hilarious, pointing and laughing at me when we encountered an airport employee who confirmed that yes, the flight was long gone and no, there were no other flights. I borrowed the phone of the employee, calling eLong to cancel the flights to collect any refund I could, and get information on flights the following day. Thankfully, the eLong representative I spoke to was incredibly helpful, managing to get me partial refunds on both flights as last-minute cancellations, and giving me times and prices for options the following day. Initially I just told my driver to take me to the train station, though I'm pretty sure he didn't understand what I actually said. I eventually borrowed his phone to call eLong back and just rebook for the following day. I estimated my losses at about $250, but the train would have arrived only a couple of hours prior to the flight, wasn't guaranteed to have seats, and probably wouldn't have been that cheap anyway. I showed the driver a post-it note with the hostel name and address in Chinese just to confirm that I did want to go back there (again, pretty sure he had no idea I had even asked to go to the train station instead), and he managed to sideswipe a guardrail attempting to read it. Lovely.</div>
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We finally made it back, and my driver continued laughing at me, telling the entire staff of the hostel about how hilarious it was that I had made him drive all the way to the airport and missed my flight. Thankfully I managed to find the only nice person who worked at the hostel, a person who seemed legitimately concerned and wanted to help, and he gave me a double room for the night for the price of the single I had been staying in (which was now occupied). I nearly collapsed into the room, mentally drained from the previous few hours. I did manage to find my way downstairs, thankfully meeting another foreigner - an Israeli girl who spoke a bit of Mandarin. She was sharing some food with some locals and invited me to join, which I did for a while, until retreating to my room to rest. I also heard from a fellow-traveler friend who had also misread her flight information and missed her flight. She was "stuck" in paradise - Hawaii - but the cost to change her ticket - to Australia - was going to be astronomical. Put in perspective, my situation felt a bit better!</div>
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The next morning, I ran into the same scenario with breakfast, when the lady on staff said, "no breakfast" when I inquired. Through a translation app, I learned that the person who usually makes breakfast was "resting". Unbelievable. Again, I made my own breakfast, 'borrowing' a pair of hard-boiled eggs and making a couple of pieces of plain toast on a pan. I ran into the girl I had met the night before, hiding out in the common area, very disturbed because the driver had attempted to make a move on her inappropriately, and she was scared to stay there. I had no idea what to do in that situation, but I urged her to tell the one kind member of the staff and to connect with friends as soon as she possibly could.</div>
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Thoroughly ready to leave, I checked out (again) at noon and caught a cab, negotiating a reasonable fare with the driver to get me to the airport. Except only a few minutes into the drive, he stopped to pick up someone else! And he went out of the way to take them to a destination! I told him my rate had just gone down, he refused, so I got out of the taxi, not paying a cent. I marched up to the next taxi, agreed on the lower fare immediately, and off we went without issue. Somehow with all that drama, it still took less time to get to the airport than it had the previous day.</div>
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Nearly two hours early - there was NO WAY I was missing my flight this time - I settled in with an expensive cup of coffee and did some writing until the plane arrived. Less than two hours later, we were in Xi'an. I was actually too early to check into my next flight to Shanghai, but I waited it out, checking in, dropping my luggage, and settling in at a small restaurant. I ordered a 'Chinese hamburger' (one of those pockets of flatbread with meat like I had tasted in the Muslim Quarter days prior), and a milkshake, as a Brazilian woman sat down and began complaining directly to me as she had trouble communicating with the waitress, "I speak English, French, and German, in addition to Spanish and Portuguese - five languages is enough!" Yes, I thought, it can be incredibly frustrating. But it is their country after all, and we're just visiting. We have to take the frustrations in stride and enjoy it for what it is. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTY9wdlZnuvQKJPezEXTArZHYv5areaTSsSo364kSKLyRfi5jJ_fIErO81G-Flp6HSxztUd5UlS4lJPVOxsZBEQnZjzp5dRchK4UpNWMXDTvZxi1EC7rsfUEcVtT2ni7VgN7_V-v-bO0j3/s1600/China-453.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTY9wdlZnuvQKJPezEXTArZHYv5areaTSsSo364kSKLyRfi5jJ_fIErO81G-Flp6HSxztUd5UlS4lJPVOxsZBEQnZjzp5dRchK4UpNWMXDTvZxi1EC7rsfUEcVtT2ni7VgN7_V-v-bO0j3/s1600/China-453.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Finally.</td></tr>
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Outlander Abroadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18318811583672765616noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8185241522378784026.post-24349202035277371262015-02-21T16:02:00.000-05:002015-02-21T17:49:11.510-05:00Beauty and Challenges in Zhangye<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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My decision to go to Zhangye was a risky one, I understood. I knew nothing about the location itself, I had talked to no one who had been there and recommended it, and even the local Chinese I met didn't seem to be familiar with it at all. I had seen photos of the Zhangye Danxia Landform on a few different lists of "unbelievable places that actually exist" - a range of small mountains with bright bands of colors - red and mustard yellow and even blue. Being familiar with photo editing software capabilities, I was sure that the colors had been enhanced a bit, but even a more dull version of those photos seemed incredible. I knew there was likely no reason for me to ever be in that part of the world again, so why not take a risk and try to see this incredible work of nature? When I researched the location online, I also discovered there were some other amazing sights nearby - temples carved out of the sides of mountains - that could also make the visit worth it. Unfortunately the reviews for the only hostel in town were dreadful, but I decided to take my chances. </div>
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The trip started out on a down note when I rushed to my gate at the airport only to discover that the flight would be delayed an hour due to weather issues in Zhangye. When we arrived in my wildcard destination, it was freezing outside (okay, it was in the 50s, but a huge departure from the tropical climates I had been visiting), and it was raining steadily. I bundled up as best I could and caught a taxi to the only hostel in town, a YHA property. The hostel was well outside the center of town, and I was somewhat horrified when I saw how cold and dingy the lobby was, and how many random men were hanging around inside smoking despite two no smoking signs. Through the assistance of a random guest - no one working at the hostel spoke a word of English - I was taken to see a dorm. It looked awful - dirty cement floors and hard-as-rocks beds with half disintegrating mats on them. The common bathrooms were even worse - they were absolutely disgusting, and the staff made some excuse about how they didn't have time to clean them. The one single room in the property wasn't terrible, so despite it costing a bit more than I would like (they refused to bargain at all) and it not having heat, I took it for some solace. I emerged later for some food, finding a spot where I got a hot pot meal, but they dumped so many chilis on top that I could hardly eat it!<br />
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I had spotted exactly one foreigner in the hostel, a guy named Xavi from Spain, who had arranged to go out to the Danxia Landform the following morning with some Chinese girls. Thankfully, they were happy to include me, and I found myself awake and bundled in as many layers as I could manage around 5:15 the next morning, well before sunrise. We piled into a van - four Chinese girls who worked together in Shenzehn (and thankfully spoke some English), a Chinese guy named Chang, Xavi, and myself. We stopped along the way for some very fresh warm bread and juice boxes of apple juice and soy milk mixed together for a quick breakfast, arriving just as the sky was beginning to lighten up. We then piled into one of the park shuttle buses to be taken out to a lookout point where a handful of people were already perched. We made it just in time to see the sun peak from the horizon, flooding the sky with pink light. We stayed up there looking out over the horizon until the sun had fully made its presence known, gazing out over the rock formations opposite as the bits of striped color that make it so unique began to slowly come into view. <br />
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We decided to visit a few other lookout points first and return to this one towards the end of our visit, when the sun was higher in the sky and could better illuminate the brilliant colors. We hopped aboard the shuttle, taking it to the 'first' stop, which had a number of small paths and viewing platforms flowing out from the drop off point. We made our way up to the various viewing platforms, the rounded orange and white hills opposite the sun beautifully illuminated with the low light, while those to the east remained dark. The Chinese girls took endless photos, posing dozens of times, recruiting myself and Xavi to join in when we were nearby. <br />
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At the next stop, we crossed a small hill and climbed way up to the top of the highest viewpoint in the park, with a stunning view of the hills in every direction. We passed poorly translated signs all along the path, adding some humor to the climb. <br />
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Our next stop was one of the most stunning to me, while very simple. A very small set of stairs led up to a small platform opposite a large single section of rock with sort of individual folds like rocky pleats at the bottom, each clearly striped with color. <br />
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Finally we returned to our sunrise stop, taking in the beautiful colors and the wide landscape in front of us now that the sun was up higher and illuminating those sections of rock that had been hidden before. We crossed the small barrier (after a local did the same) to take a few quick photos atop a small ridge overlooking the painted valley to the right and the more green areas to the far left. <br />
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After seeing each of the stops, we returned once more to stop one, where we could now better see the painted hills on the eastern side of the platform, getting glimpses of some of our other stops far in the background.<br />
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Finally we regrouped and made our way back to our driver, loading up the little van and making the long drive back to town, where we immediately all went to lunch, gathering around a circular table in a little dining room at a small restaurant. As we chatted, awaiting our food, I suddenly looked over to Xavi, who had gone totally pale, eyes rolled back as if he was having a seizure or passed out. I jumped up and held his head and shoulders and tried to talk to him, and he came to shortly thereafter, sweating and looking ill. He had passed out and felt sick to his stomach, but he said nothing like that had ever happened to him before. Edna and I got him a sprite and got him back to the hostel to rest, but the rest of us were concerned and a little freaked out, not knowing what had happened. Lunch itself was good - there was a chicken dish with noodles that was quite spicy, a really delicious bacony dish, and amazing eggplant and tomato dish that tasted like a ratatouille, and some green veggies and other small dishes. It was really nice to have the Chinese girls there to order! <br />
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I wound up meeting the girls for dinner that evening as well, walking to a nearby spot with homemade noodles. They made sure that nothing was too spicy for me, and it was all pretty tasty. Unfortunately, both the girls and Xavi were leaving (he had recovered enough to catch his train and make it safely to his next destination), so I was back on my own in Zhangye.<br />
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Up early again, I ate breakfast at the hostel before meeting up with the hostel driver again, as well as two Chinese tourists who spoke very limited English, to venture out to Mati-Si. After a long drive, we purchased tickets for the town itself and the famous grottos, driving through a beautiful green pine-covered valley, surrounded by tall hills, with prayer flags in pyramidal formations dotting the landscape. Our first stop was a set of modern pagodas atop a small hill with a view of the famous north Mati-Si Grottos, our next stop. Here, incredible temples had been carved directly into the soft stone. First built in the Eastern Jin Dynasty (317-420), there were a number of rooms formed out of the impressive wall of rock before us.<br />
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We first entered the Standing Buddha Hall, which was a huge open space with a tall golden Buddha standing in the center. Behind the figure, a u-shaped hallway was lined with seated Buddhas that had been smashed (one side was restored).<br />
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Next was Mati Temple, a small room to the far right where there is said to be a horseshoe imprint of the holy horse of King Gesar, a hero of Tibet, which lends the space its name (it translates to "horseshoe"). <br />
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Finally, we entered the most expansive section in terms of the tunnels leading through the rock. We climbed up one level, looking out the windows in the rock, which stood in front of individual rooms of figures. The window areas themselves were mostly covered in colorful prayer flags, lending a low, colorful, but muted light to the space. We crawled up higher, through a steep stone staircase up to another level that was laid out similarly, then finally up to a central space with almost no natural light, but a sectioned off wall of icons, a monk standing watch to ensure no photos were taken. We stepped into another small adjacent room down a flight of stairs with one image and a massive yellow candle, then we turned and followed the path back the way we had come. First up, then down and down and down the steep stone steps through the narrow passageways.<br />
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Finally back outside, we loaded into the van and drove a bit further up into the dark green valley. Apparently horseback riding had been an option, but it was more "be led down a short path" than actual riding, so we declined, taking a walk up to a pasture area, past small restaurants and guesthouses where locals spoke the regional dialect and even looked different from the typical Chinese population I had encountered. The guy in our group couldn't understand what they were saying, and he was surprised when I told him that we didn't have different regional languages in the US, only accents. As we walked back to the car, I couldn't help but notice a number of other small pagodas carved into the rock high above us.<br />
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We returned to the car, making one last stop closer to the entrance at a smaller set of temples carved into the rock. It didn't take us too long to explore, though to get up to one required some basic rock climbing maneuvers to chimney up a small space with the aid of some hand holds and a strategically placed wooden plank and metal bar to actually reach the room, which was furnished relatively simply, with a Buddha image and some small paintings. We walked through the other small rooms built into the stone, some with offerings of incense or red ribbons, then left the complex, pausing briefly to check out a number of small pagodas carved into the rock, some decorated with tiny Buddha figurines, before climbing back into the van to return to Zhangye. <br />
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The ride back was odd, as we picked up random people here and there and dropped them off. We didn't return until after 3, and having not had lunch, we went straight to the same restaurant where we had eaten lunch the day before. Thankfully, this time I could order by pointing to a photo of our lunch spread from the previous day, getting a pork and eggplant dish, supplanted by a 'fungi' dish and some greens. Since we had such a late lunch, I stuck to yogurt and a Snickers bar for dinner, not wanting to attempt to order anywhere on my own. I was tired of this city, of not being able to speak to anyone or understand anything, of being cold, of not being able to order food, and I couldn't wait to leave the following day. Little did I know what misadventures awaited me.</div>
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Outlander Abroadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18318811583672765616noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8185241522378784026.post-70056452281958570532015-02-17T14:43:00.000-05:002015-02-17T14:43:33.747-05:00Soaking Up Culture in Xi'an<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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I somehow managed to struggle out the door of the hostel in Chengdu at 5am, walking through the rain with a full pack out to the main road and hail a taxi, using charades to let the driver know I needed to get to the airport. Once I had checked in, I found breakfast at a bafflingly upscale Pizza Hut inside the security gate. I slept through most of the flight, awakening just before we began our descent into Xi'an. I found a taxi for what I discovered was a very long drive into the city, having a bit of a challenge finding the hostel since the driver couldn't read the English name or address (again), so he dropped me at what I knew to be the closest metro stop to my final destination. Thankfully my room was available right when I arrived, and I got settled in fairly quickly to the Green Forest Hostel Xi'an, sitting in the common area which felt like a small cafe, taking most of the day to relax. </div>
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That evening, I mustered up the energy to take the metro to the massive bellower and explore the Muslim quarter of Xi'an. It was absolutely packed! People everywhere, bright LED signs all along the road, vendors selling street food and beckoning people to their restaurants. I tried what I think was mutton on a stick - delicious but very spicy! Continuing down the street, I found a busy stand selling chopped meat inside a little pocket of bread (referred to as a Chinese hamburger). It was delicious - not spicy, but with a strong flavor that reminded me of the kebabs of Istanbul. All I was missing was one of those yogurt drinks! I spotted a lady selling small white cartons, and I took a chance - sure enough, yogurt! The cold tanginess was a perfect balance to the warm, rich flavors of the sandwich. </div>
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As I continued walking, I spotted men pounding out brittle and putting on a show of pulling taffy, attracting big crowds as they yelled and leaped to throw and twist the taffy. At one point I bumped into two very young Americans - students from Elon, right outside of Charlotte, North Carolina - who were studying abroad in Beijing. I walked with them a bit, stopping to share a small plate of dumplings, then wandered a bit more through the narrow streets until they had to meet their group. Having had my fill of the chaos, I returned to catch the metro home, passing both the drum and the bell towers, now decorated all over with bright LED lights.</div>
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I nearly collapsed with exhaustion when I returned to the hostel, resting in the common area before pointing out a small misprint on one of the maps the hostel had given me to the staff (they hadn't noticed the small error since only the English translation was incorrect). I was immediately rewarded with a free beer, which I didn't really want, but since they opened it and handed it to me, I decided to sit and enjoy it. I wound up staying up another hour or two, first sitting at the bar talking to the staff member whose name translated to "god of sleep", who was sort of obsessed with the song "Country Roads" and played it on repeat all night. I introduced him to "Wagon Wheel" for a little variety, so at least there were two songs in the loop! I also chatted with an Israeli and an Argentinian (who had lived very close to where I had stayed in Buenos Aires) about travel and politics and world events until I finally dragged myself to bed, completely exhausted.</div>
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I awoke early the next morning, having booked a trip to see both the Terracotta Warriors and the Tomb of Emperor Jingdi. Our little group left around 9, driving for quite some time before arriving at a shopping stop first. We were all a little annoyed to be taken shopping for replicas before seeing the actual warriors (and truly, I might have bought a souvenir if I had visited *after* seeing the site), so we pressed our guide to get moving as quickly as possible. The rest of the drive took quite a long time again, so it was already noon by the time we made it to the Terracotta Warriors Museum. Thankfully the entire group was determined to charge ahead and see the museum before having lunch, the plan working to our benefit as many of the large tour groups were leaving the museum just as we were arriving. </div>
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We started off at the first of three pits - excavation sites where the warriors had been found. Pit 1 was by far the largest, and to walk in and see the sheer magnitude of it was just astounding. Row after row of completely unique life-sized soldiers - thousands in all - as well as stone horses, faced us as we entered the enclosure. The sheer volume was absolutely incredible, the quality of the work and the quantity of the soldiers, especially considering that there are probably still so many more out there still undiscovered.</div>
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We were given some time to slowly make our way around the enclosure, and I found myself jealous of anyone with a massive zoom lens to see those incredible statues - the unique faces and features - up close. Towards the front of the room, the rows were mostly intact, the soldiers standing erect. Towards the middle, many of the rows were completely covered by earth, and there were some areas where handfuls of warriors were being reconstructed, pieced together. Towards the very back, there were again small groups of warriors fully intact and upright, and we could more easily get a closer look at the features of one cluster in particular, noticing the differences not only in their faces, but also their statures, their hairstyles, their clothing, the positions of their hands, all the way down to the details on their shoes.</div>
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The next pit was very small and didn't take long to view, some broken piles of soldiers on one side, and some well-formed on the other, though many were missing their heads. There was a team of horses and what would have been chariots positioned towards the front, soldiers poised at the ready.</div>
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The final pit was large, but mostly still covered up, but the big attraction was a handful of individual well-preserved soldiers under glass to one side of the enclosure. The first was a kneeling archer, exquisitely detailed, down to the remnants of colorful paint, the tread of his shoe, the braids in his hair, and the watchful gaze on his face. </div>
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Next was a high-ranking officer, a general with head gear tied around his head, robes and armor, multiple ribbons to indicate his rank, and a stoic expression. </div>
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Next was a calvary man leading a horse in full war regalia, saddled, with his forelock brushed back against his ears. </div>
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There was also a middle-ranking officer, with the headgear tied around his head, but lacking the decorative ribbons of the general. </div>
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Towards the back was a standing archer, thin and poised with one arm down as if to hold a tall bow, the other bent and taught. Finally, there was a small display case of weaponry, including a chrome-plated sword, technology that they note was not invented in the modern era until 1937. It was a wonderful way to end the experience, I only wished that there were more opportunities to view the soldiers up close, to see their incredible details, not just their vast numbers.</div>
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We stopped for a very late lunch, our group seated around a large round table as multiple plates of food were brought out, all delicious, as we hungrily devoured all that we could. Next we were taken to the actual tomb of Emperor Quinshishuang, aka Emperor Quin. He was the first emperor of China, uniting numerous individual regions into a single unit. The western name for the country is likely taken from the character representing his name - Quin, pronounced "chin". The warriors were all crafted to guard his tomb, an awaiting army for him in the after life. The actual tomb was a huge pyrimidal-shaped piece of earth that resembled a small mountain from afar. We couldn't enter the actual tomb, as the levels of mercury in and around it are astonishingly high, as they used the substance to create rivers within the underground world. Legend has it that the tomb is also guarded by a series of Indiana Jones-esque traps to discourage any would-be graverobbers (and archeaologists!).</div>
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We piled back into the van for another incredibly long ride, having been forced to take a detour, and of the group, only myself and one other person were dropped off for the second portion of the tour, the Tomb of Emperor Jingdu, otherwise known as the Hanyangling Museum. I was joined by Mirai, a student from Tokyo who was half-Turkish and half-Japanese and spoke perfect English, as we were guided through the museum. We were almost the only people there as it was pretty late in the day, and it was dark and quiet as we descended down into the tomb. It had a series of trenches full of figures, similar to the previous museum, but on a much smaller scale. These figures were quite different from the terra-cotta warriors, being only about one meter tall, and while their faces did look unique, the bodies looked like they had been mass-produced from a single mold. Like giant dolls, they had holes in their torsos where wooden arms had once been attached, and they were originally dressed in silk robes. Now that the clothing and wood have disintegrated, the rows of naked arm-less figures look a bit creepy! But Emperor Jingdu did not only have soldiers represented, he also had a wide variety of other members of society and animals, ranging from chickens to goats, piglets, huge pigs, cows, dogs, and horses. There were also numerous earthenware pots and jars, and I had to chuckle at one sign that translated to "Pottery Barns". </div>
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The following day, I took a relaxing morning, hanging around the hostel for breakfast and lunch doing some research and a bit of writing and laundry. That afternoon, I met up with Tim, an Australian I had met the night before at the hostel, who would be teaching English in Xi'an for the next few months. Tim and I walked to the nearby north gate of the city wall and climbed the stairs to the top, then rented a pair of small, single-speed bicycles to journey around the circumference of the wall. We began cycling around, stopping at the first corner and the next gate we came to on the western side, snapping photos and taking in the city spread out around us and the scenes around us - Chinese rooftops and huge modern buildings, statues in a park below the wall, couples riding on tandem bicycles along the wall, ladies walking with their sun umbrellas, families out for walks. We paused again at the next corner and the south gate, the sun dipping lower in the sky and our shadows growing longer, and we realized we didn't have a lot of time to return our bikes before they closed just after sunset. For the next half hour, we pedaled fast and furiously, flying along the cobbled wall, as I paused for one last photo of the sun glowing pink within a break in the clouds, shooting rays in every direction. </div>
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With our bikes successfully returned and our deposit collected and back where we started, we walked around the bottom of the wall a bit, seeking out a park with exercise equipment that is so typical of Asia. We found just what we were looking for, and we noticed a set of monkey bars were completely empty, so we tried out some pull-ups and swung from rung to rung. Very soon we were joined by a young boy who went back and forth from bar to bar just as we had. I hung upside down from one of the bars, and he seemed to think it was the greatest newest trick he had ever seen! As his mom kept a very close, watchful eye on him, he began trying to hang upside down himself, and soon all three of us were giggling and monkeying around upside down. We had slowly attracted a small crowd, as fit older men would stop by briefly to show off, knocking out quick sets of strict pull-ups, and children would wander over and stare. As we left, a large group of children and their moms had gathered, all the kids testing out this new trick that the strange foreigners had been doing.</div>
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Starving, we walked to a hot pot restaurant just around the corner from the hostel, selecting a huge bowl full of ingredients that were served back to us in the form of a soup, accompanied by bowls of rice. We ate a fairly sizable amount, then finally turned back to the hostel, where I began packing and preparing for my departure the next day. Xi'an had turned out to be a wonderful little place to explore, and I could have probably stayed longer, returning again and again to the Muslim Quarter for that incredible street food and to witness the chaos. But I had decided on a wildcard destination - Zhangye - a place no one I had met had ever been to, which would turn out to be one of the most bizarre and challenging - yet somehow also beautiful - stops in my entire journey.</div>
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Outlander Abroadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18318811583672765616noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8185241522378784026.post-67790357815384977732015-02-16T12:29:00.000-05:002015-02-16T12:29:50.027-05:00Travel Fatigue After 11 Months on the Road<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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I wrote this out while hiding in a much-needed private room in Chengdu, China, when the little frustrations of daily travel life were beginning to take their toll on my mental sanity. This was just prior to some very necessary days with some familiar faces from the States and three blissfully relaxing weeks in Bali with my Portuguese pirate. It bears sharing in its honesty. Burnout happens, and at that point I had to just put my head down and charged forward, until I reached the "break" I had put out there for myself. In another situation, perhaps I would have just stopped and gone straight to visit friends, or return to a more familiar, comfortable destination and camp out there for a while.</div>
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Mere days after I hit the eleven-month anniversary of my travels, as I found myself collapsing onto my fourth bed in a week's time, I felt absolutely exhausted, grouchy, and overwhelmed at the thought of making the regular series of decisions that I have to tackle on a regular basis: Where will my next stop be? How will I get there? How much longer will I be in this city? What should I do tomorrow? Where should I find food? </div>
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While this journey has been an absolute dream of mine, and while I'm truly enjoying every step of the way, it bears acknowledgement that feelings of burnout were likely to occur at some point along the way, given the duration of my travels. I had already experienced something akin to homesickness, a longing for a space of my own, familiarity, a routine - without wanting to give up traveling or return home. But after a few days of rest and relaxation in Northern Thailand, I forged ahead, racing through Laos, Vietnam, and Cambodia, with a very brief stop back in Bangkok as I made my way towards Hong Kong and perhaps my most intimidating destination of my entire trip: mainland China. I had been so good about forcing myself to stop and stay in one place early on in my travels - spending a full three weeks in my own apartment in Buenos Aires, followed by nearly five weeks based out of Aveiro, Portugal, very shortly thereafter. Since then, I have hardly stayed in one place for a week. In fact, I can probably count on one hand the number of times I actually succeeded in doing so, most being prior to my run through the aforementioned countries. </div>
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At this point I do have some rest and relaxation ahead, but it's still a little under three weeks away, when I have a full three plus weeks of beach time in Indonesia. That doesn't sound too far off, but that is also the entirety of the duration I have remaining here in China. While it would be tempting to just stay in one place a few extra days and get in some necessary recovery time, I don't want to miss the opportunity to see some of the incredible sites that I came all the way to China to see and experience. Which is truly the conundrum of any traveler, especially the long term one - how to balance seeing and doing and experiencing with sanity-saving days off?</div>
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I'm going to try and push through for the next few weeks - I'm still resolved to see the terra-cotta warriors in Xi'an, spend time with my friend Amy in Shanghai, and visit the Great Wall and the Forbidden City in Beijing. But perhaps I don't have to overextend myself and do too much else. I have to try not to overly pack my days full, or I risk collapsing into a terrible mood that's some horrific hybrid of hanger and exhaustion. </div>
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Looking back, I did overextend myself, nearly reaching a breaking point a couple of stops later in Zhangye. But that's also where I found some sort of stubborn resolve and fought back. I began my mental recovery when I set foot in Shanghai, a more comfortable city for a Westerner, and a place where I would stay with a friend from home. I found another familiar face in Beijing, and that was enough to carry me through, to end my stay in China on a positive note, before my mid-trip vacation in Indonesia. But, more on those things to come...</div>
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Outlander Abroadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18318811583672765616noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8185241522378784026.post-52098328079191488292015-02-13T14:30:00.000-05:002015-02-18T11:29:48.791-05:00Valentine's Day Guest Post - Savvy Girl Travel<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Hey everyone - hop on over to <a href="http://www.savvygirltravel.com/from-the-us-to-portugal-a-love-story-abroad/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Savvy Girl Travel</a> today for my guest contribution on an unlikely love story... just in time for Valentine's Day.</div>
Outlander Abroadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18318811583672765616noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8185241522378784026.post-53589292272360154872015-02-10T12:07:00.001-05:002015-02-10T12:07:27.769-05:00A Day Trip to Leshan<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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After a few days in Chengdu, I planned a day trip to nearby Leshan to see the Giant Buddha, designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1996. I overslept a bit, but decided to take it easy, enjoying my breakfast before I made the short walk to the bus station. I dozed and listened to podcasts for the two hour ride, and though I had planned on just taking a taxi to the Buddha, I followed the crowd over to a bus stop, asking a German guy if he knew if it was the correct bus. As it turned out, he actually spoke some Chinese, and I wound up sticking with him for most of the rest of the day. Unfortunately, the local bus took forever, so it was after 1pm by the time we finally arrived, not giving us a ton of time to explore. We made our way up a long set of stairs, the river to our right and a number of carvings, statues, and signs to our left. We finally arrived at the top, first checking out a large temple as I quickly devoured a questionable hot dog on a stick, the only food I spotted, realizing how late it was and how hungry I was!<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lost in translation.</td></tr>
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After taking a peek at the gorgeous temple, we walked over to view the enormous Buddha from the top - it was absolutely huge! The sculpture is 233 feet (71 meters) tall, to be exact, and was started in the year 713 (completed in 803) by a local monk named Haitong. We got in a very long line to take the stairs down to see the Buddha from the bottom platform, becoming wedged into a mass of people stuck in a giant bottleneck as the appropriately-named Nine Turn Cliff Road narrowed. While the slow-moving mass wasn't entirely pleasant, the views of the river and of the Buddha, carved out of the soft mountainous rock, were astounding. As we reached the bottom, I noticed a number of spots along the cliff wall where there had once been additional carvings, sadly many worn away from the elements or simply the hands of tourists over time.<br />
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At the base, the view looking back up and the sense of scale was indeed incredible - I could have easily stood on one of the Buddha's toenails - that's how large he was! We saw a couple of tour boats pass by, the only way to really step back and get a good look at it in total, but sadly we didn't have enough time to even attempt a river tour. From the base, we exited on the opposite side, and rather than going straight back up, we followed the path alongside the river out to a second temple that was included in our entry ticket, passing a small pagoda and a cluster of shops along the way. To get to the temple, we first crossed a section of the river over a beautifully constructed bridge with red pavilions on either side, topped by beautifully curved typical Chinese roofs. The bridge itself was a large arc, sweeping over the water to a heavily wooded area on the other side, with another long set of stairs up. </div>
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I had completely lost the German guy when I stopped to take a photo of the stone arch bridge crossing the river, and I was a bit worried when the path split and I didn't actually see him at the temple, but I took my time looking around, catching more chanting that echoed what I had heard at the Wenshu Temple a couple of days prior. Thankfully, I bumped into my new friend right as I was about to leave. We looked in one last room - a large, almost bizarrely furnished space with large images of men (we didn't quite figure out who they represented) all around the circumference of the space. <br />
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Finally, short on time, we descended, following a path with signs marking the way to a bus stop. It took a long way and another river crossing to reach it, and we only had an hour or so, so we considered just finding a taxi, but we boarded the next bus that came by anyway. Thankfully, we made it just on time and there were seats available for the 5:30 return to Chengdu (which we thought was the last bus, though we heard there might be one at 7). I again slept on the ride back, then grabbed a quick dinner and packed my bags, actually managing to get to sleep at a decent hour after the long day, ready for a very early wake up the following day to travel to my next stop: Xi'an.</div>
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Outlander Abroadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18318811583672765616noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8185241522378784026.post-80767937984191219992015-02-03T12:06:00.002-05:002015-02-03T12:06:47.029-05:00Explorations in Chengdu<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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Upon arriving in Chengdu, I upgraded to a single room at the Flip Flop Hostel, giving myself a much-needed mental health break from shared spaces! I arrived late in the day after climbing in Yangshuo, a bus ride to Guilin, a flight to Chengdu, and a long taxi into the city, and I was mentally exhausted and overwhelmed at the idea of figuring out another city on my own. I was reaching near total burnout stage, desperately needing to sit still and feel some familiarity in a place, and I was near paralyzed over attempting to figure out the next few days' worth of activities and flights, making decisions on which cities to see over my limited time in the country. I gave myself a full day to rest and recharge, finally emerging from my room long enough to see the hostel setting up a table for a dumpling party, in which they brought out balls of dough and bowls of veggie and pork mixtures and attempted to teach us how to create and stuff and fold up the little dumplings. Our creations were then steamed and served to us! I finally did venture out from the hostel walls to briefly recharge my SIM card and seek out an ATM, taking in the sight of the massive city around me and making a mental note of a few cafes in the area. </div>
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I got up very early the following morning, having signed up to pay a visit to the Giant Panda Research and Breeding Center with a small group from the hostel. Our driver acted as a sort of guide, leading us around the park, though he didn't actually speak English except to say "Let's go!" when we were staying too long at any particular spot. Thankfully, by arriving early enough, we missed most of the big crowds that showed up a few hours later. The very first pen we visited housed a single enormous panda, far bigger than I ever expected them to be! The panda was mostly lounging on its back munching on bamboo, but it eventually climbed up onto its bamboo perch, lazily rubbing its bum against a post and stretching!</div>
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Next we saw a pen with about five pandas, all lying around like drunk college kids, lying on their backs eating leaves, with one slumped face-down in a tree like he had passed out after a hard night of partying. The third pen housed three smaller pandas, all of whom were lazily lounging in the trees.</div>
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Next, we walked through a tunnel with a glass wall, through which we could see tiny baby pandas in incubators!! There is nothing cuter than a tiny baby panda in an incubator. We were dying of cuteness overload. They were its bitty, but already white and black and covered in a thin fuzz. If that wasn't enough, there were also two baby balls of fluff sleeping sprawled over each other in a sort of large square baby pen.</div>
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Our next stop included a mix of smaller and larger pandas, one of whom struggled up his bamboo platform, climbing and flopping all over the place, then coming back down in an almost slow motion tumble. The struggle is real, little panda, the struggle is real. And then? MORE baby pandas in incubators. </div>
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Finally, we moved away from the giant pandas over to the red panda enclosures. Resembling a cross between a red fox and a raccoon, they were absolutely adorable and fluffy. As we walked through a long wooded corridor in between two pens, we suddenly saw a red panda strolling down the walkway towards us! We couldn't believe he was out and started snapping photos, other tourists gasping and squealing as he nonchalantly sauntered around. Eventually we noticed that small diamond-shaped holes had been cut into the chain link fence in multiple places - my only guess is that since they're so small and climb trees so easily, perhaps they move between enclosures on their own with or without the holes in the fences. </div>
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Now that the park was starting to get packed full of tourists, we started nearing the end, walking past dense bamboo with grilling rays of light shining through, to watch a video and walk through a small exhibit on the panda. I honestly got the feeling that nature has truly marked these creatures for extinction - given that they are carnivores who eat bamboo, who conserve energy by being lazy and failing to make any effort to reproduce because they don't get enough energy from their food, and furthermore, the poor male's penis is small and the female's vagina too big, further inhibiting procreation! With all those difficulties in reproduction, female pandas in the wild will still abandon half their offspring, choosing to only nurture a single cub. If they weren't so damned cute, I'm pretty sure the panda would never survive! Granted, I'm quite happy they are so cute, and that I got to see them living happily in a center that is working towards keeping the species going.</div>
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We finally returned to the hostel, and I tried to rally to actually make the most of the afternoon and explore the town. I wound up joining one of the guys from the hostel for a bowl of noodles at a nearby spot, successfully avoiding too much heat but still tasting the mouth-numbing effects of sichuan pepper - like tiny bits of anesthesia on the tip of my tongue and lips. </div>
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We parted ways, as I hopped on the metro towards the Wenshu Temple and Monastery, surprised at having to go through a security check before boarding the metro! Once at my stop, I wandered around some shaded side streets with vendors selling their wares on the sidewalk. I turned the corner and began wandering through the streets immediately outside the walls of the monastery, full of shops, restaurants, and traditional architecture. It was quiet and breezy, a nice escape from the hectic city streets.<br />
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Eventually making my way towards the compound itself, I first saw a tall, thin tower, with dozens of small levels, each with bells on each of four corners. It was flanked on either side by statues of elephants, each with multiple tusks, with what appeared to e a monkey on the back and a small person below it, placing something on its trunk. The entire complex was like one massive garden, so I took my time wandering around the small pools and pagodas, intricately cut trees and greenery, and statuesque rocks. <br />
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I finally found my way to Manjushri Hall, a modern structure, but built in a traditional style, a large, intricately decorated building where the soft sounds of chanting floated outwards. As I peered inside, I saw men and women in long robes, a handful in regular clothes, winding around the room chanting words that sounded phonetically like "I am home" (but of course, in some other language… I don't even think it was Mandarin). They returned to their places behind small yellow cushions, beginning a new chant in which one half of the room would kneel down into a full bow, while the other half stood and sang the long mantra. Then they switched. I stood mesmerized by the whole thing for quite some time, as it was beautiful to witness. I made my way through the rest of the garden-like complex, eventually emerging and catching the metro to People's Park.<br />
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People's Park was incredibly busy, packed full of people, and I was shocked when I almost immediately bumped into an Austrian couple from the visit to the Panda Center earlier in the day! The area of the park we were in was insanely loud, with competing sound systems blasting music, some for singers to perform with, some for dancers, one for some sort of fashion show, all within a relatively small space. We sought out a quieter area near a tea house to sit and chat. <br />
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Not long after, a local man sat down and began speaking to us in near perfect English. It turned out that he was a tour guide - Mr. Tray Lee - who's actually mentioned in the Frommer's Guide Book. While he did try to sell us on his tour services (we probably would have been more interested if we had more time), we did have a long conversation with him. I was surprised at how outspoken he was about the government and his political beliefs, and it was wonderful to hear his perspective and opinions. He saw the communist leadership as just another dynasty which had nearly run its course, and he hoped the Taiwan and Chinese governments would merge. He didn't want China to emulate the US, but he did want to move away from single party rule, hoping a new China would come about with a look back to the positives of the ancient civilizations and their heritage. We sat there talking to him for over an hour and a half, so while I still had questions for him, we wrapped up our time there and went our separate ways. <br />
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I wandered through a bit more of the park on my way out, seeing badminton games and men practicing calligraphy using long wands with paintbrush-shaped sponges on the ends, dipping them in water and painting the shapes of the characters on the ground. I passed a small park within the park, a walled-in area with a zen-like feel, rocks and bonsai trees and quiet, next to a building that very much resembled an Anglican church architecturally. I also passed small amusement park-style rides for children and people doing arts and crafts, finally exiting the park and catching the metro back.<br />
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I had planned on coffee, and I went straight to a spot I had seen that looked like a nice cafe called "Kidult". Once inside, I realized it was actually a western-style restaurant that happened to serve coffee. Since it was dinnertime anyway, I ordered a small steak, happy for something that might actually fill me up better than dumplings. The ordering process was a challenge though, as only one person on the staff spoke any English, and even mimed requests for a menu or the check received blank stares and confusion. I finally returned to the hostel, exhausted from over-exerting myself over the course of the day, compounded with the failed attempts at communication at the restaurant. <br />
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I wound up in need of another rest day the following day, so I took it easy in the morning, getting some work done in terms of planning for the following weeks in China, making decisions on dates and locations, booking flights and hostels. I realized that I had been nearly constantly on the move since leaving Portugal six months earlier, hardly staying anywhere even as long as a week (and rarely doing that!) - it was no wonder I was so exhausted. It felt like a weight had been lifted once I got the next few weeks booked - at least it was mapped out - and I would get some much-needed rest once I arrived in Indonesia. </div>
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I finally left the hostel for lunch and coffee, sitting down at the restaurant across the street. Unfortunately, I arrived a bit late for lunch, so I was the only one there, and I felt the stares of the staff as I ordered and ate. A simple order of sweet and sour pork turned out to be a huge portion meant to be shared, and it was only pork and sauce - no veggies - so I ate what I could and got the rest packed up for take away, leaving as quickly as I could. </div>
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Next I tried to visit the oddly named "Good Wood Coffee" to get a cappuccino and do some work, except when I walked in, I was blasted with a massive cloud of cigarette smoke. It did look like they actually served coffee (and some incredible looking pastel macaroons), so I tried to figure out if I could get a seat in a nonsmoking section. No one spoke a word of English, but I finally worked out that no tables were available and I needed to wait. I kept trying to ask if non smoking was even an option, with little luck, and I almost left after two girls came in and sat down to wait next to me, immediately lighting up a pair of cigarettes. I got up to leave, but a staff member finally escorted me up two flights of stairs to a room with a no smoking sign - hooray! Except, at least half the tables were smoking anyway. As I hesitated for a moment at the table, those same two girls from downstairs suddenly shoved past me and sat down. I couldn't believe it! At that point I gave up and left as quickly as I could to try and find somewhere else. I spent at least another half an hour wandering around trying to find anywhere with a chair and coffee before giving up, returning to the hostel, throwing on comfy clothes, and staying in. I wound up hiding out the remainder of the night, but the following day, I would spend my last in Schezuan making a day trip out to Leshan, site of a giant Buddha carved out of the side of a mountain...</div>
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Outlander Abroadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18318811583672765616noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8185241522378784026.post-88943985752165721402015-01-30T12:10:00.000-05:002015-01-30T12:10:42.488-05:00Cappuccinos and Climbing in Yangshuo<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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After a solid night's sleep in a comfortable bed and breakfast at the hostel, I resolved to get out and explore the town it had taken so much effort to reach. I was pleasantly surprised by the meandering narrow walking streets full of people, lined by shops, restaurants, and streetside vendors. Occasionally I would walk by one chopping a mix of chilis and fresh garlic, the incredible smell making me smile. I wandered with no clear direction, but somehow wound up near the Lijiang River, taking in the gorgeous limestone karats covered in greenery across the waterway. I walked over to a small gazebo to take in the view and noticed a nearby cafe that looked great for coffee but didn't serve food. Instead I ventured around the corner to a spot called Dumplings Dynasty for a tasty plate of the namesake dish before returning to Cafe Ming Yuan. I sat down and ordered a cappuccino, delighted to see a lion created out of the foam when it was delivered to my table. </div>
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Right as I was getting ready to walk back to the hostel to catch a 5:30 hiking trip, the Chinese man at the table next to me tried to strike up a conversation, inquiring about the Lifeproof case on my phone. Except that he spoke only Chinese. After some failed charades, we pulled out our phones and attempted to use translation apps to have a conversation. Although sometimes the results were just… off… and I occasionally wondered what I had actually said to him based on the responses I got back, the conversation continued for long enough that I gave up on my hike entirely and ordered another coffee. We were eventually joined by two more of his friends, and the woman he had been sitting with mentioned that she had a friend in town who was a rock climbing guide who spoke English. And then, they invited me to join them for dinner!</div>
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And so that's how I wound up piling into a tuk tuk with four local Chinese, taking a short ride to nearby Chunji Company, and sitting down at a massive restaurant full of locals, the only foreigner from what I could see. We shared multiple courses of an amazing meal - a sort of soup with tofu and pork, followed by a dish with tarot root and either pumpkin or sweet potato, then rice with corn, two separate beef dishes, the local specialty dish of beer fish - fantastic, perfectly cooked and moist, though a bit spicy, and finished up with steamed buns filled with goose.<br />
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I learned that Jia-Xing, the original guy who had struck up the conversation with me, owned a factory in Shenzehn that made iPhone / Apple accessories. Originally from Chengdu, he had a 15 year old daughter named Jia-Ling who wanted to study in America. He was resistant to the idea, being concerned for her safety. He specifically expressed fear over there being so many black people in the US, which made me ashamed and saddened for how racism has made its way all the way across the globe, no doubt fueled by how film and media portray African Americans. I tried to assure him that she would be fine, assuring him that my own parents also had concerns for my safety when I decided to travel on my own outside of the US. I can only hope that our brief encounter may have adjusted his opinions on the US, and that he eventually does let his daughter study abroad.<br />
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Unfortunately, Jia-Xing wound up leaving rather abruptly, as he had tickets for that evening's water performance, so I never got a chance for a group photo to commemorate the night's unique experience. But I did get contact information for the local woman's friend who was a climbing guide, and we agreed to meet the following morning. I met Water (as his name directly translated to) at his shop, Spiderman Climbing, the next day. After picking out some rental gear and chatting about my (low) level of expertise, we hopped on his moto and rode out to Swiss Cheese Wall, just outside the city, a great little climbing spot with some relatively easy routes. A couple of guys from his shop were there with a family of beginners and a Swiss guy more on my level, so we shared ropes and got in a few climbs relatively quickly.<br />
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I started on a relatively easy 5.8 with a challenging area near the top, then, after belaying for Spiderman - one route on top rope and me saying I knew how to lead belay were apparently enough for him to trust me - climbed a more difficult 5.9 that was long enough to leave me fatigued from lack of endurance. Next was a quick 5.7, then setting up a 5.10, which I climbed last. It was fairly easy until the crux, where I had to get him to pull me up a bit, my hands feeling raw, and my arms feeling fatigued from the fairly long routes after not climbing for months. The views from the top of the routes though were just incredible - the rock jutting out from bright green fields of rice - and I was very thankful I had decided to spend the morning climbing. The four routes finished me up for the day, and I caught a ride back with one of the other guides, agreeing to contact Spiderman if I was up for another day of climbing.<br />
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I showered up and had some dumplings for lunch, then returned to Cafe Ming Yuan for my daily coffee with an intricate foam design - this day I got an anime character that I wouldn't recognize at the time, but I now know to be Tortoro! I did a bit more wandering after my caffeine and character cappuccino fix, getting a closer look at the Lijiang River, as tour boats passed by and dozens of tourists wandered out into the shallow water to take selfies. As dinnertime approached, I wound up grabbing some fried wontons and dumpling soup at a busy street nearby, people watching on the outdoor patio, before heading back to the hostel exhausted from the day's activity.<br />
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Sadly, the next day was spent hiding out from nonstop rain, becoming a complete waste of a day, and canceling the water performance I had hoped to attend to celebrate my 11 month travel anniversary. I wound up spending the entire day between the hostel and the cafe - this day was a panda in foam - writing and Skyping.<br />
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With the weather finally clear the following day, I rented a bicycle and set out for Moon Hill, determined to finally see the iconic landmark. The ride was pretty long on my way-too-small single speed bike, but the scenery was gorgeous, despite the hoards of tourists and tour buses that made me feel a bit claustrophobic on the little road. I finally reached Moon Hill, looking up to see the crescent ridge of earth with the circular hole in the middle off in the distance. The girl at my hostel had acted like it was a long and challenging hike to the top, but what I found were… paved stairs. While it was definitely an uphill trudge, it only took about 20 minutes to reach the top. Sadly, there were no climbers up there to watch or photograph (likely because the weather was still so wet), but there was a stunning view of the valley below from the opposite side of the rock bridge, a hazy scene of greens and blues, rock and rice, and far in the distance, a bit of the river and the town itself. <br />
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Once I had fully taken in the view, I turned and started to head back, only to bump into a girl from my hostel and her friend - Simone from Germany, and Zoe from Australia. As we stood there chatting, two American guys - brothers Paul and Justin - chimed in as they passed us, and we all wound up chatting, eventually sitting down and sharing some beers the guys had carried up to the top. As it turned out, Paul spoke Mandarin, and he was quite a help the rest of the day! We all pedaled our tall selves (seriously - my height was average at best among this crowd) on our tiny bikes back, returning to the city with one quick detour to take some photos of a field of lotus blossoms on the side of the road. Back in the city, we all went to a restaurant with an outdoor patio, sharing dishes that were all incredibly flavorful, though a bit spicy for me! After lunch, the girls returned for naps and showers, and the guys joined me for coffee (dragon this time!) and helped me check to see if the water performance would be happening that night (sadly, no).<br />
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Since the water performance was still a no go, I agreed to meet up with them later for dinner and drinks. I found Simone at the hostel, so she joined as well, sharing a couple of drinks with the guys by the riverfront, then going to another large, brightly lit restaurant where we were definitely the only foreigners. Paul ordered us a range of delicious local dishes, thankfully getting me a few that were less spicy this time. We all continued on to local climbing bar the Rusty Bolt that evening, joined by two British guys at a table, laughing over beers until Simone and I decided to turn in for the evening, leaving the guys to continue bar hopping!<br />
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Despite having a flight that evening and having had a few drinks the night before, I contacted Spiderman for one more climbing session the following morning. We met at 9, traveling out to a spot called Wine Bottle Wall with one other belayer and two beginner Chinese climbers. This spot wasn't quite as peaceful as the first, being in very close proximity to a popular tourist spot that was blasting music, but the rock itself was still quite nice. We did four routes again - a 5.7, a 5.8, and two 5.9s - the very last one again leaving me struggling at the crux with raw hands and exhausted muscles, but it was a great feeling to be back on a real rock outside in such a gorgeous place.</div>
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I returned to the hostel for a quick shower and some lunch before catching a shuttle bus for the over an hour long ride to Guilin, during which we were inundated with loud sounds from a Kung Fu movie playing in Chinese on the bus. Thankfully, we were dropped right at the airport with plenty of time before the flight, and I lucked out with a sort of upgrade (a seat with actual legroom!) and actual food (not recognizable food, but food nonetheless) en route to Chengdu, my next stop in China. I had debated staying an extra day in Yangshuo - it would turn out to be one of my favorite stops in China - but I had a timeline to maintain within the massive country, and I needed to keep moving. But if I ever do return, the area in and around the lovely little climber's paradise will be one of the places I make sure to see again. </div>
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Outlander Abroadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18318811583672765616noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8185241522378784026.post-52039753823857489992015-01-27T10:26:00.000-05:002015-01-27T10:30:20.656-05:00Cultural Observations: China<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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China was definitely one of the most challenging countries that I visited, for a number of reasons. I was on a tight timeline, so I was generally stressed about how quickly I needed to get from point A to B, the country itself is enormous, so getting around isn't as easy as in many places, and after so many months of continuous movement, with hardly as much as a week in any single location in a number of months, I was simply tired. And of all the countries I visited, the culture shocks were big and noticeable. Here are just a few of the observations I made:</div>
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<b>Almost no one speaks English.</b> While miming can get you pretty far (acting out "airplane" to taxi drivers is always fun), even some standard hand signals (asking for the menu or the check, basic numbers) seem to be lost. And with vast differences in dialect across the various regions, attempting to learn a few words doesn't seem to help much either (and has often gotten me blank stares). Luckily most hostels seem to have at least one person on staff who speaks English well, and I've resorted to asking them to write me post it notes in Chinese characters if I need to run a specific errand. Translation apps can also be helpful (if they work), and I screen-captured some common words to show if I need to. Learning the hand signals for numbers is also helpful: 1-5 are obvious, but 6-10 are still signaled using a single hand, and I'm sure the locals would be genuinely baffled to learn that the rest of the world does not communicate this way.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMDbNpPXUb72QN-2S15Indgx23gVNE0vp19U7SyW4ArHP3pAGgSckI8La6J4Jhxn37ITIemv2FiyflYmTzoKSISmjk2F68WIGI1Tezh-whNw-fNX8XWb8kLJZD_cKpujMbRm4TX23Czhnu/s1600/China-343.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMDbNpPXUb72QN-2S15Indgx23gVNE0vp19U7SyW4ArHP3pAGgSckI8La6J4Jhxn37ITIemv2FiyflYmTzoKSISmjk2F68WIGI1Tezh-whNw-fNX8XWb8kLJZD_cKpujMbRm4TX23Czhnu/s1600/China-343.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A "translated" sign in Zhangye. Y'know, because the Chinese is phonetically written with English letters.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxdB_8cjy_aFd8TKIMz7wIerJVsU4VgX3snUn7tNXr0PSchTDXmJh9EmlQk_OmAaqUeQDspsl0kiMJyErJgFeBNuOdzD-2sXtac7JMhqwODXKSISDUWVFdqL6yFjsLFeBAvPR3au0EDuX2/s1600/China-171.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxdB_8cjy_aFd8TKIMz7wIerJVsU4VgX3snUn7tNXr0PSchTDXmJh9EmlQk_OmAaqUeQDspsl0kiMJyErJgFeBNuOdzD-2sXtac7JMhqwODXKSISDUWVFdqL6yFjsLFeBAvPR3au0EDuX2/s1600/China-171.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Practicing calligraphy in Chengdu.</td></tr>
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<b>The internet is broken. </b>Or rather, most everything you're used to using is blocked. This includes Facebook and any Google app out there. For someone who had been reliant on Google Voice for text and Google Translate and Facebook, it can be a challenge. Wifi is also quite expensive, making more scarce than in other countries, and surprisingly slow given how otherwise modern China can be. Note: Since I left, it's gotten even worse - Instagram is also blocked, and even many VPN services have been disabled.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">That selfie won't be going on Instagram or Facebook.</td></tr>
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<b>Baby bums.</b> Diapers are a rare sight in China, and you'll probably see quite a few baby bums and other bits. A common practice is to put very young kids in pants with large slits in the bottom. You'll often see these littles either popping a squat in the middle of the street or their parents holding them over a trash bin to do their business. While I'm sure they save loads of money on diapers, protect the environment, and teach potty training much earlier than western countries, the lack of sanitation just feels icky, especially when you wind up sidestepping a smear of poo on the ground inside the Terra Cotta Warrior Museum or are walking past a small child being held at adult chest level, doing his business in a trash can.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Baby bum in Beijing.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNWrEn3H5wUjqbTas-4Xbna0i7OhMxscHDnwsiKSxu2hmUd0JMgj5Mz14iyCjrGnnG0aPKgTOtUn4ku84zgGgz9c55O1wMMP-DAoDVcE5qzCiQqj8Dje4ibmpEElcWgRuM-44K4Yi-Hy_H/s1600/China-258.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNWrEn3H5wUjqbTas-4Xbna0i7OhMxscHDnwsiKSxu2hmUd0JMgj5Mz14iyCjrGnnG0aPKgTOtUn4ku84zgGgz9c55O1wMMP-DAoDVcE5qzCiQqj8Dje4ibmpEElcWgRuM-44K4Yi-Hy_H/s1600/China-258.jpg" height="400" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Baby bum in Xi'an.</td></tr>
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<b>Where is the restroom? </b> Many restaurants and business simply lack the plumbing for their own toilet facilities, but there are generally public restrooms fairly available throughout the cities. However, these can sometimes be hard to locate if they're in an alleyway off a main road or on the second floor of a shopping pavilion. As for toilet paper, bring your own. Many restaurants hand out small folded packets of tissues that myself and other foreigners hoarded like gold in case the need should arise. If a restroom actually does have toilet paper, it's usually in a single roll in the center of the bathroom, rather than in each individual stall. And unless you're in a place with it's own western-style toilet, it will definitely be a squatter. Bathrooms often lack soap, and rinsing with a bit of water seems to be an acceptable level of hand-washing, even for food-service personnel. The best I could do was carry a lot of hand sanitizer. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvqy4jLsiyw5y6FVpDoVXnBYH3Ka9Q2mlsJHFDRh9zji_VXv8klrPXX0dZVO_WdpqO0Txz55kuUcRKfslcSBYGE4OgR-tohBAzJz2qoYeeSyC7c4kbbTPP8flh3qWScl8WLbNr26C_EF5q/s1600/IMG_3470.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvqy4jLsiyw5y6FVpDoVXnBYH3Ka9Q2mlsJHFDRh9zji_VXv8klrPXX0dZVO_WdpqO0Txz55kuUcRKfslcSBYGE4OgR-tohBAzJz2qoYeeSyC7c4kbbTPP8flh3qWScl8WLbNr26C_EF5q/s1600/IMG_3470.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Typical public facilities.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgP8XGsXPR6GYMxTtb4juQ1T9FvKgTunl1J66T9u1VMykGR8gDVozddlbh-de0bvBuYzAL7vCEzlE5sRENZJ9Cce2jjkaepSUUVcPzU-Sw87vTlVEV9Al88WfXaUKXeDlnlPSSGouIvgNrV/s1600/IMG_3475.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgP8XGsXPR6GYMxTtb4juQ1T9FvKgTunl1J66T9u1VMykGR8gDVozddlbh-de0bvBuYzAL7vCEzlE5sRENZJ9Cce2jjkaepSUUVcPzU-Sw87vTlVEV9Al88WfXaUKXeDlnlPSSGouIvgNrV/s1600/IMG_3475.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Actual soap in a restroom!!!</td></tr>
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<b>A nation of contrasts.</b> Despite his hatred of all things capitalist, Mao's face graces every banknote in the country. He still seems to hold some god-like reverence, despite his oppressive cultural revolution that destroyed so much of the country's incredible heritage. The Chinese have long been a people of hard work and innovation, but I can't help but wonder how much more they could accomplish if they were encouraged to think more freely and independently.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkxJvduLGSnM0WDmZH-bD9_3cbOLNkAaKYd-3IK1j2Aosja7nkJFDH7dhRhEkl1Od1KnKcSPRnS43N3Xn64dA-_dgvSFnaVf05OwExf2VxOPVmN6wKNbPPLssawk3a678zaCRRttXDh6-Y/s1600/China-124.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkxJvduLGSnM0WDmZH-bD9_3cbOLNkAaKYd-3IK1j2Aosja7nkJFDH7dhRhEkl1Od1KnKcSPRnS43N3Xn64dA-_dgvSFnaVf05OwExf2VxOPVmN6wKNbPPLssawk3a678zaCRRttXDh6-Y/s1600/China-124.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mao's little red book.</td></tr>
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<b>Fashion.</b> Being of a more collectivist mindset, you'll often see people dressed to match. Couples in the same shirts and color schemes. Mothers and daughters in matching dresses. Friends wearing identical outfits, walking arm in arm. A social faux-pas in the States is celebrated here. You'll also see a lot of knock off designer goods, enormous English text on tshirts that only sometimes makes sense (often leaving me wondering if they have any idea what these shirts actually say), and women in very short shorts and very high heels, but with their shoulders covered out of modesty, of course.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgF8egJQx2zMcPWfNGdY-_nzlNk-zX41PVPi16KxI8vu2-zXwAUEvvIVGPDWQFZqGvwrVS_cZJB3cBzz7QkdnfZtOKku7rTPhATjFMZ10-cgNlpbSMDuJTGYTqp3iTvqNTsgFQ1MWVb4o8N/s1600/China-169.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgF8egJQx2zMcPWfNGdY-_nzlNk-zX41PVPi16KxI8vu2-zXwAUEvvIVGPDWQFZqGvwrVS_cZJB3cBzz7QkdnfZtOKku7rTPhATjFMZ10-cgNlpbSMDuJTGYTqp3iTvqNTsgFQ1MWVb4o8N/s1600/China-169.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A trio of matching girlfriends in Chengdu.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgejbIt5L36fBqg6tpX4mlS3mqD-Nc_XM1rH2iUYjj7XlZsq4WC6x_FmC7fcO-zdozqFYXSjDgqbzflwaPbrMY941ZtaCEBdltD877JBLBHAnRjz1sNa-AKLqWqE13NJpGbDIuFeiUyikG/s1600/China-620.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgejbIt5L36fBqg6tpX4mlS3mqD-Nc_XM1rH2iUYjj7XlZsq4WC6x_FmC7fcO-zdozqFYXSjDgqbzflwaPbrMY941ZtaCEBdltD877JBLBHAnRjz1sNa-AKLqWqE13NJpGbDIuFeiUyikG/s1600/China-620.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A matching couple on the Great Wall.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_vpcziwef7C1p6ywkhOzWSHblfZ6slVr7Xu4QgMkUSMkJ3dOHNr9KW57pqFozXWlcHHd5gVt0S0I7eR0wueG9KzifMPwiiKU6MlD05lgObmc0TiyFRbVS_fHEUN4aR7Of20DQiHBXiiTG/s1600/China-607.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_vpcziwef7C1p6ywkhOzWSHblfZ6slVr7Xu4QgMkUSMkJ3dOHNr9KW57pqFozXWlcHHd5gVt0S0I7eR0wueG9KzifMPwiiKU6MlD05lgObmc0TiyFRbVS_fHEUN4aR7Of20DQiHBXiiTG/s1600/China-607.jpg" height="400" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Matching couple takes a selfie in Beijing.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhj5O47eAabdMxWVgJL3J1kRtB9vKVyZSer4RoLUrR5ojLFi46u4NBOcL-sqdqdZmnJhmp0cH809lB2fAmvm6oelkHPVsNV7YxB-wWH0kVsH53boZlBw0XjMJkxcUgHxp5r7qfJ9w-xb_F9/s1600/China-275.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhj5O47eAabdMxWVgJL3J1kRtB9vKVyZSer4RoLUrR5ojLFi46u4NBOcL-sqdqdZmnJhmp0cH809lB2fAmvm6oelkHPVsNV7YxB-wWH0kVsH53boZlBw0XjMJkxcUgHxp5r7qfJ9w-xb_F9/s1600/China-275.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nonsensical English phrases find their way onto a lot of clothing.</td></tr>
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<b>Eating is a group activity.</b> While most countries in Asia typically have family-style shared meals, I actually struggled a bit eating on my own in China, as there simply weren't often options that worked as complete meals on their own (outside of the confines of the hostels I stayed in). I reveled in any opportunity to share meals with other people so I could actually sample a complete meal, and otherwise I ate a lot of dumplings. Oh, and germ-a-phobes might have a hard time with this one - those chopsticks you're eating with? Everyone is using them to dip into the various dishes to serve themselves, throughout the meal.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBkTjKqL7War5_wzox2D-AZ8xnihOXrWF7Xc6NOS9hnkhBgCH1VtNW3zsAFbbPEmk9bMKwbDdz9T5_UgqgM-elFIc-o90Piq2IgMvLVSFTU0jeSkXge9zG69bcpjHguUoSvK2OeWVDjePA/s1600/China-307.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBkTjKqL7War5_wzox2D-AZ8xnihOXrWF7Xc6NOS9hnkhBgCH1VtNW3zsAFbbPEmk9bMKwbDdz9T5_UgqgM-elFIc-o90Piq2IgMvLVSFTU0jeSkXge9zG69bcpjHguUoSvK2OeWVDjePA/s1600/China-307.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Eating family style in Xi'an.</td></tr>
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<b>The people can be incredibly friendly. </b>Despite the language barrier, many people are very friendly and willing to help. If you do wind up running into someone who speaks English outside of your hostel, they will probably want to chat with you, and they will go out of their way to help you. When my bus dropped me off in Yangshuo and the tuk tuk driver couldn't read the name of my hostel in English and I couldn't get the hostel on the phone, I said loudly, "does anyone speak English?" and immediately a man with his entire family in tow stopped to look up the name of my hostel in Chinese and explain to the driver exactly where it was. When I was running late at the airport and had a very tight window in which to check my bag, I asked a woman if I could skip ahead of her (and her mountains of luggage) since I had so little time. Not only did she graciously usher me ahead, but she went to every other person in the line and asked them to let me pass, which they did with smiles on their faces. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFnsCWXLOyPVQJtAY8LyI5w0sIYSSkc5TcbMu0Jk0-nNn9BT_r2KfsCYl9lPY0sCYkCNo33LyyEf5CEtLRPnwQ5f-v_KLh20TUXUEAAK9ZU3cfMLxsIgehKy9KStwN3X8lZiR07x0ZQ4_D/s1600/China-335.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFnsCWXLOyPVQJtAY8LyI5w0sIYSSkc5TcbMu0Jk0-nNn9BT_r2KfsCYl9lPY0sCYkCNo33LyyEf5CEtLRPnwQ5f-v_KLh20TUXUEAAK9ZU3cfMLxsIgehKy9KStwN3X8lZiR07x0ZQ4_D/s1600/China-335.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">An incredibly friendly group of Chinese tourists in Zhangye.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A Chinese tour guide who chatted with us for an hour in Chengdu, offering his opinions on current politics.</td></tr>
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<b>But you are not a special and unique snowflake. </b>In these individual encounters, people are wonderful, friendly, helpful, gracious. But when you are simply part of the crowd, you are likely to feel disrespected. But it isn't them, it's you. Well, mostly. Asians in general and Chinese in particular have mastered the art of not giving a f----. They are absolutely not bothered by things that would drive most westerners absolutely mad. And as such, I'm pretty certain they wouldn't ever expect you to be bothered by some of these behaviors, whether it's talking loudly on the phone, playing music or TV shows in public at high volumes with no headphones (at all hours), loud throat-clearing and spitting, pushing ahead of you, invading what you feel should be your personal space, smoking absolutely everywhere (usually in view of no smoking signs). While I think we could stand to learn a bit from them in not letting these would-be annoyances get to us and not feeling personally affronted by them, I also think they could stand to have a bit more respect for others. Unfortunately this also can carry over into some very ugly individual behavior as well, as I occasionally found myself the bad end of a joke (my driver found it absolutely hilarious that I had missed my flight in Zhangye), despite a culture that values "saving face", and I did find some very rude and unhelpful "service" personnel, though those seem to exist at both ends of the spectrum in every country.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Part of the crowd.</td></tr>
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<b>The men are kinda gross. </b>Sorry, I know it sounds ignorant, and I know I'm reiterating the above, but really. The vast majority of Chinese men I encountered would loudly clear their throats, usually spitting, usually every few minutes. And even more smoked so much that I honestly wondered if it's was government plot against population growth to keep them in cigarettes and smog or simply a lack of care. The lack of respect for others is taken to a whole new level with these two activities. Most businesses, restaurants, etc. allow smoking or simply don't care. (Thankfully, public transit is strictly non-smoking. But not trains.) When I visited the Great Wall, I noticed two male bathroom attendants come into the women's restroom (weird enough as it was), sit down, and light up a pair of cigarettes, even though there were shady benches outside where their smoke could have dispersed into the air just right outside the door. Sitting on the patio of a nice Peking Duck restaurant in Beijing a few hours later, I spotted a younger man out on a date who chain smoked through the entire meal while also purposely coughing up phlem and spitting every few minutes. Somehow, the woman didn't seem at all bothered. While I did see a small handful of women participating in both of these activities, it seemed a national pastime for the men.</div>
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<b>Respect the queue? </b> Standing in line in China is more akin to a rugby scrum than an orderly act. Disregarding any personal space for respect for who got where first, you are pushed into a swarming mass of people jockeying for position, a total free-for-all. This is all perfectly normal behavior, and again, people aren't bothered by it. Admittedly, this was one case where I was quite happy to be a bit taller than average, as I could keep my head above water so to speak.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Jockeying for position in Beijing.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The queue for the Giant Buddha in Leshan.</td></tr>
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In total, China was beautiful and amazing, but challenging. I don't honestly know if I would have done it the same way given the opportunity. Because of the nature of my travel, I haven't been able to spend as much time researching individual places as I might for a normal vacation, and China sort of demands research. If you can afford to stay in nicer places that cater to tourists or hire drivers and tour guides, you'll probably have an easier time as they will be more English-friendly and help you navigate, but you will lose some of the authenticity of a visit. I was also very, very, very lucky to have a few friends from the States who lived in China and helped me get around in the last week of my visit to the mainland, giving me a much-needed break after nearly three weeks of struggling and stressing a bit more than normal. However, sometimes it's the most challenging places that stick with me the most - certainly that provide excellent fodder for stories - and I wouldn't mind revisiting China at some point. Perhaps with a little more knowledge, research, and friends who speak the language.</div>
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Outlander Abroadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18318811583672765616noreply@blogger.com3